You’ll feel like royalty at this 18th-century restaurant with décor befitting the more-is-more mentality of the last kings of France. Velvet seats overlook massive, mirror-lined walls interspersed with delicate tableaux, and enough gold detailing to fulfill the Sun King’s loftiest dreams. You’ll drag crusts of excellent country bread through the complimentary Provençal olive oil as you peruse the menu, which includes simple glazed salmon, steak with roasted tomato coexisting with an out-there sea bass terrine with miso and black cardamom, and vegetarian options that leave much to be desired. If you don’t have an aristocrat’s budget, consider a weekday lunch visit when the €68, three-course prix fixe may feature an exquisite mushroom-studded chicken pâté, slow-cooked lamb shoulder, or one of the most monumental chocolate tarts ever.