Hanuman is sandwiched between fast-casual chains in a busy strip mall, but don't let that fool you: the traditionally decorated dining room buzzes with energy, and even bathroom walls are plastered in colorful Thai movie posters. Start the ice-cold Hanuman ceviche or green papaya salad with raw chile heat that creeps up on you, throw in the gai todd for a fun, hands-on project of stacking fried chicken, rice, and crispy shallots into messy bites, then focus on the excellent curries and noodles. Our favorite is the khao soi—chewy egg noodles in a rich coconut curry broth—which offers the best of both worlds.