You can smell the beef from the strip mall parking lot across the street. A breeze off South Oyster Bay carries the scent north until it reaches your nostrils, and before you know it you’re crossing Merrick Road to line up at the counter at All American Hamburger Drive-In. This Massapequa institution opened in 1963, and its prices haven’t changed much since. For $2, you can get a patty the size of a silver dollar on a griddled bun smeared with ketchup and diced onion. If you need something more substantial, there’s also the quarter pounder served in a custom foil envelope. Add a hot dog and a packet of wilted, salty, golden-brown fries, and you’re still looking at a meal that’ll run you roughly $10. You get what you pay for. So don’t expect Minetta Tavern. All American’s thin beef patties, cooked to medium, are not the stuff of legend, but they are the stuff of great summer afternoons. Grab a table on the roadside patio, then melt in the Long Island sun while you strain your cheek muscles trying to coax a pomade-thick shake through a straw.