Quiet luxury is out—and the ‘80s, in all its flashy glory, are back, baby. Hemenways, which first opened in 1985, recently got a facelift, enlivening a space that used to be a little stuffy. They’ve leaned into their namesake “seafood grill” and jumped on the crudo-and-fresh-local-catch train—and we’re into it. There’s also high-roller, caviar-dolloped waffles, thick crabcakes, stuffed lobsters from our friends in Maine, and skyscraper-height shellfish towers. There’s a decent wine-by-the-glass list—perfect for sitting at the bar and sipping a citrus-forward albariño alongside a platter of briny local oysters—as well as punchy cocktails and a good selection of mocktails. Hit Hemenway’s up for the raw bar before dinner, or if you want to impress your parents or coworkers and have a few Benjamins burning a hole in your pocket.