Just two hours to the north of Phoenix is an entirely different Arizona, a landscape of pine trees and dramatic red cliffs and the more hospitable climate of the high desert, which at four thousand feet above sea level remains ten degrees cooler than Phoenix at its hottest. This is no sprawling metropolis, either; Sedona is a small town, yet surprisingly cosmopolitan, with a thriving arts scene and some of Arizona’s biggest and best resorts. One of the real gems, though, could be the smallest; El Portal is more a guest house than a hotel, much less a resort, and is dwarfed by Los Abrigados next door. It’s only more impressive for this fact, an intimate twelve-room hotel that shows a fastidious attention to detail, a meticulous Arts and Crafts replica, with antique-reproduction doors handmade by the owner and antique furnishings and fittings everywhere. The period touches don’t get in the way of the modern conveniences; suites feature flat-screen televisions, DVD players and high-speed internet access, and most have whirlpool tubs and separate showers. You’ll have no problem finding excellent restaurants during the week, with the help of El Portal’s concierge. The pool, spa and fitness center next door at Los Abrigados are open to El Portal guests. How to get there: El Portal is a two-hour drive from Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport.