Roots makes an excellent fried chicken: a whole broken-down bird that feeds three to four and works as a perfect centerpiece to a meal. Surround that chicken with hearty cornbread and a peach salad, if it’s in season, or Southern classics like the crunchy fried green tomatoes and braised greens swimming in smoky potlikker. Since the chicken and cornbread are essentials, dinners here can be pretty heavy, but a strategically ordered glass of bubbly or a crisp rosé will help to even you out. With its strip-mall location, one-room space, and hospital-white tables, Roots isn’t the coziest or most romantic spot in town, so we prefer it for casual dinners with friends over date nights. But every occasion can benefit from this spot’s comforting fried chicken and warm service.