From Ecuadorian roasted pig to Sri Lanka kothu rotis to the best birria tacos, Culinary Backstreets navigates the street food scene of Queens, New York. We’ve handpicked the absolute best street eats in town, to make the most of every bite.
LessAt lunchtime, Ecuadorian food trucks transform this corner of Queens sidewalk into an ad hoc lunch counter. Among them, Pique y Pase Pepin serves the best hornado (Ecuadorian roast pork) in town. In the mountain markets of Ecuador, hornado usually means a whole roasted pig, but Pepin sensibly carves up servings from a roast pork shoulder. Besides that, their hornado is strictly traditional: served on a bed of white rice and accompanied by one llapingacho, a kind of Andean potato croquette.
At this roadside stand, chalupas are prepared a la Puebla, Mexico – corn tortillas shallow-fried in lard, dappled with green & red salsas and topped with a scattering of onion & shredded beef. Central to the operation is a charcoal-fueled tlecuile brazier, on which the chalupas are fried. “This is the primer puesto [the first food stand] that makes authentic chalupas in Queens,” frontrunner Cleotilde Juarez Ramirez says. Try your chalupas “doraditas” – fried golden, for a little more bite.
The original D’Angelos vehicle was a ‘67 International Harvester, but the current sausage “truck” is really a trailer sitting by an enclosed cemetery and massive road traffic, all but ruling out a walk-up clientele. Most people drive to D’Angelos – it’s just that good. Sausages come with the choice of hot or sweet (or even half-and-half), form-fitted to a superb semolina roll, smothered in grilled peppers and onions, and handed over like a scepter to a king. We accept with both hands.
Chairs and small tables offer an informal dining area across the broad sidewalk from this Greek food truck, which has been in operation since 1979. Overhead, an elevated train rumbles by every few minutes. The customers – local lads in sleeveless T’s, office workers on break, men of leisure cradling a coffee cup from nearby Boulis Pastry – talk among themselves in Greek. Most praise the pork and chicken skewers, adorned with lemon, salt and a little oregano, while others prefer the gyro.
Folks have opinions on just how to eat Birria-Landia’s beef-stew-topped tacos: One contingent recommends immersing the taco, bite by bite, into a side order of consomé. The other favors spooning consomé over the taco all at once. Both approaches work just fine, provided that plenty of napkins are close at hand. While the beefy consomé is undeniably delectable, for eating on-the-go, the spicy birria makes the tacos juicy enough as it is.
Way before she had a vendor license, Maria Piedad Cano – the famous Arepa Lady – was a lawyer and a judge in Colombia. When she moved to the US and found herself starting from scratch, she sold her dreamy arepas from a cart, eventually becoming an icon in the neighborhood and across New York’s boroughs. Now, three brick & mortars sell her fluffy, cheesy arepas and other Columbian treats. Bragging rights: Her son, Esneider, is our very own Queens walk leader.