Up to now many of the best Bangkok hotels have been vast, corporate luxury hotels. And while they might be among the best in the world at what they do, sometimes you want something a bit more intimate. To that end, you could do much, much worse than the Siam Hotel, a family-owned, Bill Bensley–designed luxury boutique that comprises just 39 suites and villas right on the banks of the Chao Praya river.

If you want a more classic stay, look to Lebua at State Tower. Its 357 suites are a far cry from the 39 at The Siam, but each is well-appointed, clean and modern, and the location in Bang Rak – near the river, Charoenkrung, Chinatown and Rattanakosin – can’t be beat.

A short walk away, K. Panich offers a welcome pick-me-up: mango sticky rice. The signature sweet features Chiang Rai sticky rice, hand-pressed coconut milk and fresh nam dok mai mangoes. If you were a fan of the dessert before, wait until you try it here.

Dinner - There’s just one choice for foodies at dinnertime in Rattanakosin: Jay Fai. Getting a table is no easy feat, but watching Thailand’s doyen of street food work a flaming-hot wok is an iconic experience. You know the drill. Order the crab omelette and stir-fried noodles with seafood and gravy, and let them be the start of an epic meal at Bangkok’s most famous shophouse.

Day 2 - The InterContinental Bangkok is a great choice if you plan to spend more time around Sukhumvit. The recently renovated hotel sits right beside BTS Chit Lom, a short walk from the city’s shopping district, right in the heart of the action. Getting around from here is a breeze.

Morning - Within the shadows of Phrom Phong’s luxury malls, you’ll find Rung Rueang Pork Noodle. This humble institution, also a Bib Gourmand recipient, serves subtly seasoned soup with bouncy homemade fish balls and pork. The queues are outrageous at lunchtime, so beat the crowds – and the heat – by visiting when it opens at 9 am.

This iconic family-run shop has been packed with locals for more than 50 years. These days, the family’s second generation runs it, but the founder’s talent for cooking dishes like the signature claypot stewed duck with intestines, blood jelly, and feet clearly runs in the family.