Terry Black’s is the first place you’ll see (and smell) on the drive into Lockhart, and it’s the best overall spot in town for brisket that melts in your mouth, tender and moist spare ribs, and snappy sausages. And while the focus on excellent meat in Lockhart can mean sides are treated as an afterthought, that’s not the case here. The thick elbows of mac and cheese are glossy, and the creamed corn is a barbecue classics done right.

Both Black’s and Terry Black’s were started by the same family, but have since broken off into two different barbecue dynasties. Brisket is often praised as the end-all-be-all meat in Central Texas barbecue, but the ribs here deserve plenty of attention for their perfect amount of bite and smoke. The well-seasoned beans have been made from the same recipe since the 1930s, and you’ll find yourself shoveling them into your mouth between bites of sausage and beef ribs.

The pits at Kreuz Market look like they haven’t been cold in a hundred years, and the pork chops are so moist and tender you can tear off a piece with just a fork. The sides here also stand out—you should definitely get some creamed corn with poblanos and baked potato casserole, or lean into the German roots and get a side of fennel-seed-flecked sauerkraut.

Smitty's classically Central Texas brisket has a fragrant bark and plenty of moisture, and is perfectly balanced without tasting overly salty or smoky. It’s impossible to eat barbecue without a little mess, but your fingers are guaranteed to shine with beef fat, especially since there are no forks to be found here (just spoons and knives). Our only complaint is that the meat can be a little inconsistent across cuts—the pork ribs are a bit dry, especially when compared to the luscious brisket.

Barb’s is the new kid on the block in Lockhart’s barbecue scene, and one of the few spots where you’ll find people waiting outside. They have cuts like brisket and pork ribs, but also inventive flavors and sides. Instead of potato salad or mac and cheese, you’ll find neon green spaghetti and a generous sprinkle of freshly grated lime zest on each plate. Everything here is good, but Barb’s neighbors are just more consistently great (to be fair, they’ve been at it for a few more decades).