From a window on Ningyocho’s main street, a broad-faced Kazuyuki Tani is making udon, dancing as he works. His noodles are blissfully chewy and elastic, and the menu has all the classics, among more creative options as well. Aside from a comforting kare (Japanese curry) udon and rich beef niku udon, we always order the mentaiko-kama-bata: a nest of udon topped with a dollop of walleye pollack roe, a raw egg yolk, and a cube of butter. It’s creamy, salty and, frankly, addictive.

Yakitori shop Kushiwakamaru sits smack in the middle of hip Nakameguro. Everything is skewered and grilled over charcoal. Asparagus wrapped in bacon, scallion-topped eggplant, shitake mushrooms, and garlic cloves strung out like pearls. The moist, plump chicken wings arrive alone, as do the hearty, raw vegetable salads. An English menu is on hand for foreign clients. Reserve or come early to get a seat since diners like to linger. (They still allow smoking, which adds to the throwback feel.)

This standing sushi bar in Asakusa provides a lively dining experience that's both casual and authentic. Opened in 2015 by the nearby conveyor belt sushi shop of the same name, Hinatomaru built their reputation on offering affordable, good quality toppings and fish. Especially tuna in all its varieties - from lean akami to luxurious ōtoro to flame-seared sushi. Regulars pack the cozy spot for staple sushi and specialties like zuniku, the rich tuna head meat, so expect a short wait.

For some on an early morning food hunt, Tsukiji Station is a breakfast sushi stop. But those in the know might head for Cafe Tsumugi on the grounds of the imposing Tsukiji Hongwanji temple. Its lunch and tea are divine, but the main appeal lies in a somewhat extravagant 18-dish breakfast. While some dishes are based in traditional vegan Buddhist cuisine, there’s also delights like octopus salad in a tangy shio-koji dressing and juicy slices of duck with hints of sansho pepper.

At this temple of tonkatsu, breaded, fried pork cutlets are the only thing on the menu. Savor a standard cutlet or fatty top rib cut with traditional cabbage, rice, and tangy house-made pickles. Olive oil and salt are the special condiments only found here. The pork’s provenance is equally unique: the pigs have a strict Chinese herbal medicine diet. “The pork doesn’t feel heavy when you eat it,” explains chef Yukichi Maenaka. Sit at the 14-seat counter to watch him fry the cutlets golden brown.

Tokya’s Tsuta became the first-ever ramen store to receive a Michelin star. Locals maintain, however, that the best ramen is rather found around the corner at Menya Imamura. The limited menu has only two types of ramen, both with a base broth of chicken and small dried sardines, and laden with thick, springy noodles. The shoyu version has a thicker broth, with punchy umami recalling memories of the sea; the other, shio (salt), is closer to a hearty chicken soup. Each bowl is a work of art.

This sleek, pale-wooden Ebisu address looks like a classic Japanese restaurant. Yet, this soba spot invites you savor the 400-year-old noodles in a modern way. The menu hints at chef Yoshinobu Saito’s overseas influences, like his creamy Italian truffle soba with a soft-boiled egg. Dinner is a kaiseki, traditional multi-course dinner, in which buckwheat plays a starring role. Enjoy hot soba bread and cool buckwheat groat ice cream among seared tofu and dumplings stuffed with foie gras.

This noodle nirvana is hidden behind the Sablon cake shop, the entrance between a green A/C unit and a yellow traffic cone. Owner Hiroshi Yamazaki makes just 20 portions of thick, chewy tsukemen noodles each day. Dunk them in his fragrant chicken, pork, and dried fish stock. We like adding char siu (BBQ pork) on top. It’s first come, first serve at this tiny, 4-seat, lunch spot. Come hungry for the 300-gram servings. Order the special dessert if you have room.

Indian curry arrived via the Brits in the 19th century. Since the 1960s, Japanese curry rice has been a fast-food staple. Choose your own curry adventure at this popular Kichijoji spot. Start with base stock, from curry to coconut milk. Customize your spiciness – 11 is the highest. Select from 16 different ingredients. Veggies from a local farm are the star here. Enjoy them in the 20-vegetable curry, a rainbow of a dish bursting with burdock, lotus root, broccoli, pumpkin, and soybeans.

Friends Yamada and Sumida have struck gold with a perfect twist on classic ramen: smoke. In the shoyu ramen, soy sauce is smoked for six days. Its eggs and mushrooms hit the smoker too for delicious depth. Rotating tapas also feature kemuri (smoke), like smoked cheese or the addictive smoked squid eggs. Bold Guinness stands up to the strong flavors. We also dig the spiced rums and Japanese gins. The intimate setting of counter seats and a small standing section makes newcomers feel like locals.

The house of Hiroshima-style stuffed pancakes. Grab a seat at the counter to watch chef Fuku-san sculpt each order to perfection. He pours crepe-like batter on the hot grill, sprinkles on cabbage, bean sprouts, pork belly and shrimp, and adds a tangle of noodles and another pancake. Use the small trowel to heave a wedge of the delicious mess onto your plate. Then, top with scallions, pickled ginger, bonito flakes, and mayo. Seriously crowded at mealtimes, come at off-peak hours to snag a seat.

Our favorite place for monjayaki is also Tokyo’s oldest. The delicious, pan-fried batter comes with a range of mix-ins. We love the shop special (squid, octopus, shrimp, beef, corn and noodles). Your waitress will cook it at your tableside grill if you don’t know how. The monja has the consistency of melted cheese. The small spatulas are for scraping the piping-hot mess into your mouth. FYI, the restaurant reeks of griddled goodness – the waitress gives you a giant plastic bag for your coats.