Need help navigating Tokyo’s seafood scene? Culinary Backstreets has you covered. Our local guides have handpicked the freshest fish in town, from high-end faves with flawless sashimi cuts, classic edo-mae sushi bars and breakfast bonito joints.
LessThis standing sushi bar in Asakusa provides a lively dining experience that's both casual and authentic. Opened in 2015 by the nearby conveyor belt sushi shop of the same name, Hinatomaru built their reputation on offering affordable, good quality toppings and fish, especially tuna in all its varieties - from lean akami to luxurious ōtoro to flame-seared sushi. Regulars pack the cozy spot for staple sushi and specialties like zuniku, the rich tuna head meat, so expect a short wait.
Located down an alley at Tsukiji Outer Market and through a maze of flashy sushi joints, this is our go-to place. Its tiny 12-seat counter downstairs and stylish tables upstairs boasts a delectable uni (sea urchin) tasting with selections from different waters around Japan. The tuna sushi lunch course would tempt any serious tuna lover, with fish sliced on the spot and arranged over rice. The prices are not cheap, but well worth it for the freshness, quality and Edo (old Tokyo) atmosphere.
Mai Nagamatsu, a katsuobushi (skipjack bonito) specialist, crafts a simple menu of bonito flakes and rice that received Michelin’s bib gourmand. Nestled in the backstreets of Shibuya, we found this intimate diner when looking for made-to-order ehōmaki (uncut sushi rolls) to celebrate Setsubun (the first day of spring) – but any other time of year folks are queuing for a set menu of the most delectable dried bonito shaved over bowls of rice.
Many fishmongers at Tsukiji Nippon Fish Port Market have begun offering small portions of their fish to be eaten as sashimi, making Tsukiji a great place to graze and enjoy on-the-spot dining. One of our favorite vendors is Takatoyo Maru No. 38, a low cement building next to the former inner market. It’s easy to find nestled under a large illustration of a tuna. The sales case features otome maguro (albacore tuna) and hon-maguro (bluefin tuna) fished with sea-friendly traditional methods.
Within a nondescript apartment building in Nishi Azabu, press a buzzer and announce yourself over the intercom. You’ve arrived at Sushi Kinoshita, which opened in 2018 under the supervision of the master chef of three-star Sushi Yoshitaki. It’s here that sushi nears its zenith. Its flavor and texture can bring tears to the eyes, (though we should also point out that the price is also eye-watering). When the chutoro maguro (medium-fatty tuna) dissolves on the tongue, it’s sheer bliss.
Just west of Shinjuku Station is an izakaya renowned for its tokishirazu, a unique type of salmon caught out of season in Hokkaido, celebrated for its fluffy texture and clean flavor. Shake Kojima’s interior evokes the nostalgia of Japan’s Showa period, creating a cozy atmosphere that complements its home-style dishes. A succulently grilled salmon filet with crispy skin pairs perfectly with chilled sake. Other offerings include homemade kasu salmon and hizu, pickled salmon head cartilage.
In the Nihonbashi financial district, this izakaya experience has a modern twist. Originally from Tsukiji Market, this pub-style establishment is now part of the modern Coredo Towers. Despite its location, this spot has a rustic feel true to its heritage, and office workers gather to dine on charcoal-cooked fish and knock back a vast selection of sake from across Japan. The menu highlight is the fresh catch of the day, which you can have grilled, sashimi or both.
At first glance, the dishes at this wine bar seem quite Western, but they are more of a Japanese take on wine-friendly foods. Appetizers range from Caesar salad with snow crab, a suzuki (sea bass) carpaccio or tako (octopus) in its own ink. We love the local oysters grilled or raw. They source everything locally and buy daily from dedicated fishing boats out of Misaki. Dinner pastas include a linguine with sea urchin “macchiato” and a vongole with karasumi, dried Japanese mullet roe.
This distinguished unagi restaurant in a historic building in Higashi Azabu is renowned for serving fresh, wild Japan-caught freshwater eel. A delicacy known for its velvety texture and umami flavor, unagi is prepared here using traditional Edo-era techniques, the chefs masterfully grilling the eel over charcoal after steaming it.vIt’s not just hype that earned this place a Michelin star – any self-respecting Edoko (resident of Tokyo) would be thrilled to go here for dinner.