Walk west of the centre along the River Tagus and soon you’ll spot a vast, undulating structure rearing its head from beneath the waterfront promenade. Designed by the UK’s Amanda Levete, the dazzling Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology (MAAT) has become a must-stop for travellers making the habitual pilgrimage to the parish of Belém. Don’t overlook the cutting-edge contemporary art shows that regularly take over its four underground galleries.

Welcome to seafood heaven. This old-style cervejaria has a slightly chaotic college canteen vibe: getting a table can feel like a bit of an ordeal, though the beer vending machine makes the wait fly by. Yet the hefty plates of all things frutos do mar are stupidly good (and very affordable too). Most plates come steaming, in generous portions, straight out of the open kitchen – almost all lemony, garlicky and with a good dose of chilli. Make sure to try the simple, satisfying Bulhão Pato clams.

If the Chiado area has smelled a little more fragrant of late, that’s probably because legendary soapmaker Claus Porto has opened up its first bricks-and-mortar store here. Housed in a historic, wood-panelled pharmacy – complete with a dashing azulejo-covered façade – the shop sells perfume, soap, scented candles and creams on the ground floor, while an upmarket barber shop operates out of the basement. All of the products come with eye-catching handmade labels and make ideal souvenirs or gifts.

The first market in the world where everything has been chosen, tasted and tested by an independent panel of city experts: Time Out’s journalists and critics. Since 2014, the market has grown to include more than 40 spaces – including 24 restaurants, eight bars and a dozen shops – all together under one roof. A century-old fresh produce market showcasing the city’s best meat, fish, fruit and flower vendors still operates in one of the wings.

Down a cobbled backstreet in Mouraria, not far from São Jorge Castle, this traditional Portuguese taberna serves fuss-free food in a setting that feels just a little bit like home. The original owner, the Eurico in the name, retired a couple of years ago, but the new staff have retained his restaurant’s old-world charm. If the door’s not open, you may have to knock, but inside you can expect a feast of tapas-like small plates – think cod cakes, lamb croquettes and cuttlefish served in their ink.

You’ll want to buy pretty much everything you see at this sprawling ‘concept’ department store. It’s housed within the Ribeiro da Cunha palace, a neo-Moorish structure dating back to the nineteenth century and now split into more than a dozen shopping areas across fashion, homeware and cosmetics. The stock is well curated and, almost without exception, incredibly beautiful. Make sure to drop by in-house restaurant Atalho Real for a classic Portuguese dinner.

The Casa Fernando Pessoa – where the influential Portuguese poet spent the final 15 years of his life – is now a wide-ranging museum dedicated to his works and legacy. After being closed for a year for renovation, the house reopened to much fanfare in the summer of 2020 with three floors of new, stylishly done-out exhibition space. Here you’ll find a ‘world poetry’ library, Pessoa’s personal book collection, regularly changing temporary exhibitions, and a reconstruction of the poet’s apartment.

José Avillez has achieved a lot in his relatively short career. With addresses in Lisbon, Porto and now Dubai, the renowned Portuguese chef’s success stems from Belcanto, which opened in 2012 and bagged its first Michelin star that same year. This restaurant – also the first in Lisbon ever to win two stars – is still where Avillez comes to push his creativity to the max. The tasting menus brim with radical twists on Portuguese classics, and are best enjoyed with a bottle of hand-picked vinho.

Alantoíne, Jacarandá, Gordíssimo: the names of the various ranges at century-old cosmetics brand Benamôr sound almost like characters from a whimsical fairy tale. The new flagship in Príncipe Real, next-door to the botanical gardens, certainly has a dreamy feel, with its immaculate millennial-pink walls and art deco-inspired mosaics. The space pays particular homage to the brand’s best-selling face cream, but you’ll also find a decent range of oils, balms, shower gels and body butters.

For an education in generous, hearty, traditional Lisbon cuisine, you’ll want to sample the lunch menus at this cosy taberna in Chiado. Run by chef-owner André Magalhães – also a researcher in the history of Portuguese food – the restaurant serves early-twentieth-century staples like veal liver with spleen or salt cod salad with chickpeas and onions. Like what you taste? It also has a food shop showcasing things like locally-produced bread and butter, plus all manner of exquisite canned fish.

You can never pay too many visits to LX Factory, a thriving ‘city within a city’ in Alcântara. This 23,000-square-metre hodgepodge of factory buildings was once home to a major weaving and textile company. These days, it’s a sprawling labyrinth of independent shops, galleries and restaurants that appeal to locals and tourists alike. Must-visits include the Ler Davagar bookshop, Organii for eco-friendly clothes, and Landeau, a café best known for its unctuous (and very moreish) chocolate cake.

Only 20 diners are allowed into Loco at any one time – and really, what a lucky bunch they are. Alexandre Silva, the first winner of Portugal’s ‘Top Chef’ TV show, opened this intimate restaurant at the back of the Basilica da Estrela in December 2015. Of all of the capital’s many haute-cuisine establishments, it is probably the most relaxed and also the best value (17 courses will cost you just €113). The menu changes every day, but expect plenty of seafood.