With a new high-design concept pushing Karaköy Lokantası from power lunch spot to upscale dinner venue, sitting down for a spread of meze is as indulgent as it is tasty. The stuffed artichoke heart dressed up zestily with lemon and olive oil is a tasty pick, and the Karaköy salad is a refreshing blast of greens spiked with beans. You’ll see the kitchen’s skills at work on the grilled octopus, which features the desired char to tenderness ratio.

Served over slices of raw red onions, the lakerda (pickled bonito) medallions at Refik are a deep rose in color, soft and fragrant of the sea. We felt honored by the presence of this true Istanbul native alongside small plates of soslu patlıcan (eggplant smothered in tomato) and spicy pepper spread. The bonito is preserved in a light brine, something that feels millennia-old – so beloved, the Byzantines even minted coins with an image of the fish.

This Beyoğlu spot puts the “home” back into home cooking, and it’s bursting at the seams at lunchtime. You’ll often share your table with strangers, and “mom” is a burly, mustachioed fellow in constant motion. His imam bayıldı is one of the best stuffed eggplants we’ve had. On one visit, a tangy dish made out of brown lentils in a tomato broth, occupying a space somewhere between a soup and a stew, was utterly satisfying, as was a big, fat artichoke heart stewed in olive oil and served cold.

While much of landlocked Anatolian fare differs from the offerings of the coasts, Black Sea folk keep with some (though certainly not all) of Mediterranean tradition – especially when it comes to hamsi, the tiny and tasty European anchovy. At Hayvore, order it stewed with veggies, lightly fried or baked into leek cakes. Outside of fish, other close-to-earth meals include the hearty chickpeas in tomato, stuffed chard and a smoky casserole of kale and hominy.

The last decade has seen a dramatic culinary shift in Istanbul, with chefs moving away from pirated European cuisines and giving way to a movement based on local ingredients and traditional Turkish cooking techniques. Civan Er of Yeni Lokanta has been at the helm of this journey, making winks throughout a meal of several small courses. Most notable are green beans covered in “burnt” yogurt and a simple little salad of samphire spiked with crushed peanuts and citrus.

The stylishly designed menu at Cuma is, somehow, Frankenstein-esque, an odd assembly of dissonant parts – blending traditional Mediterranean fare, Anatolian staples and Western imports. When put together, it comes alive. Purslane salad with roasted eggplant and walnuts. Beetroots and an eastern white cheese. Grilled sardines with pickled onions. Ending a meal with a flourish is muhallebi, a pudding dessert that replaces processed sugar with mastic. The sour cherry on top is a reduction of vişne.

Solera offers an intimate setting and extensive wine list highlighting small, boutique wineries. Here, you’ll find Turkish wines not often seen elsewhere in the city, and that is owner Süleyman Er’s goal. Paşaeli’s Yapıncak is a brilliant, pale gold. This white has delicate aromas of fruit and the sea, and a burst of fresh citrus. As for reds, Gordias’s Kalecik Karası is excellent – a grape that was once on the brink of extinction.

Around the corner from SALT Beyoğlu and tucked behind Beyoğlu’s fish pazar is a tiny shop of wonders, selling organic “ecological and natural products” from Turkey and beyond. Stock up on cold-pressed virgin olive oil and local honeys from independent farms. The colorful, always seasonal produce – ruby red pomegranates in winter, plump purple figs in the final days of summer – spill forth from the entrance. The shop’s natural products make for souvenirs that speak of the region’s eternal bounty.

Each meze at Mahkeme has its own little twist, bringing back old-school ingredients to dishes that are already classics. The mezes are just as impressive as the restaurant, housed in a restored 1840s inn. The extra-garlicky samphire has just the right blend of lemon and olive oil. And finding a better grilled octopus would require crossing the sea to some remote Greek island. Even cilantro (a rare herb in Turkish cuisine) has found its way into a simple sea bass ceviche.

First opened in the late 1800’s, the historic Beyoğlu Fish Market has long been a center for not just the freshest catch from the sea but also for top-quality produce and artisanal foodstuffs. In recent decades, the market has become increasingly touristic, but there are still some traditional gems left in the bazaar, like Resat, which are worth seeking out. Think homemade jams, sumptuously pickled bonito and glazed quince served with heavenly kaymak.