Need help navigating Lisbon’s plentiful food scene? Culinary Backstreets has you covered. Known for our intimate food tours and engaging reads, our local guides have handpicked their favorte hidden-in-plain-sight spots.
Less30-year-old chef António Galapito has seduced Lisbon with his first spot. Housed in a former factory, the soaring ceilings elevate each meal. The locavore menu brims with vegetables and seafood, with seemingly simple dishes made with lots of technique. For dessert, the acorn ice cream takes the gold medal. As does the natural, organic Portuguese wine list. Their shop next door is a dream for foodies and picnic-goers.
The reigning seafood king of Lisbon, this 50-year old cervejaria has a modest soul as a working-class beer hall. Locals and tourists queue up for the daily catch from the large aquariums. They sop up Ramiro’s classic sapateira, stone crab stuffed with a crab pâté, with warm bread. Gamba á la aguilho, shrimp with garlic, pepper, brandy and lemon, is another mouthwatering dish. Our favorite “dessert” is the garlic-laced beef prego sandwich. A “return to the land,” after a trip on the sea.
Taste traditional Minho cooking at this off-the-tourist-track address. Daily specials include Monday’s bacalhau com broa (salt cod with corn bread) and Friday’s duck rice. Many customers also order grilled fish sourced from the Alvalde Market close by. The main draw is bitoque – a fried-egg topped steak in garlicky sauce with fries. Aim to arrive early to score a seat at this no-reservations spot. Just make sure you have the right address, since there’s an (unrelated) Solar Minhoto across town.
A cozy spot for good food and wine. Grab a stool at the U-shaped bar, where co-owner Sérgio proudly pours his father’s wine, made in traditional clay amphorae. Cousin and co-owner Carlos cooks Alentejo classics with a Michelin-star pedigree. Share small plates like coelho de coentrada (cold rabbit in coriander sauce) and scrambled eggs with túberas (an Alentejo truffle). Mains include xerém de berbigão (corn flour mash and cockles.) Save room for desserts like egg-based encharcada.
At the second location of Venice’s first natural wine bar, the vinho flows as freely as conversation. This bridge between Italy and Portugal offers wine from both countries. They are lovingly poured by amicable Italian owners, Giulia and Massimiliano. The small menu is also a delicious fusion: salt cod, charcuterie, and mackerel with brioche. For dessert, we can’t get enough of figs and requeijão, a ricotta-like Portuguese cheese. Choose from the bar or the convivial, front patio.
This former snack bar has grown up to be a beloved restaurant. Out went the burgers, in came regional recipes like chafana (goat stew), choco frito (fried cuttlefish), and secretos de porco preto (fatty strips of black pig.) The fresh fish on display at the entrance is ready to be grilled. Owner José will happily help you choose. Don’t just follow our lead. Some of Lisbon’s best chefs regularly name Maçã Verde as one of their favorite places to eat traditional food in the city.
One of Lisbon’s first places for natural wine has resurfaced in residential Penha de França. Ramón’s wine list features a mix of Portuguese and European bottles. Since he knows many of the producers, each glass poured feels like he’s sharing with friends. His partner, Romina’s, food showcases seasonal vegetables, fish, and lesser-used cuts of meat. We love the empanadas, the fried rice with asparagus, and the liver with kimchi. Savor them at the wooden bar or on the sidewalk patio.
People climb to Graça for the famous viewpoint. We like to come for this iconic fish restaurant. From garoupa (grouper) to linguadinhos (small sole), every fish on the menu is freshly caught, expertly cooked, and lovingly presented. The fried fillets are a must – beautifully golden on the outside and tender inside. Each portion feeds two easily. Solo diners can ask for a meia dose (half portion.) Either way, this tasca earns its name: “pitéu” is a colloquial way of describing a delicacy.
One of prettiest squares in Lisbon is now home to a Saturday farmers market. Beloved grocery store Comida Independente organizes the vendors. Find fresh produce, artisanal breads, cheeses, honey, wine and more. You get to meet the producers themselves and learn about their goods. Each week there’s a theme, like chestnuts or mushrooms. The big draw is the street food from local chefs. A rare chance to eat extraordinary dishes at low prices in a simple yet beautiful environment.