While most of the pitmasters in Texas argue over who makes the jiggliest brisket, LeRoy and Lewis is looking at the rest of the cow—and it’s cooking all of it. It feels like a love letter to beef, and it’s this broad-minded approach to barbecue that makes it the best way to experience smoked meat in Austin. Everything has a Central Texas-style approach—simple seasonings, low-and-slow smoke, and local meat—and it’s applied to more than just beef.

KG BBQ adds an Egyptian twist to classic Central Texas-style barbecue. That means dishes like sticky pomegranate glazed pork ribs, smoked chicken kabob shawarmas with sumac-pickled onions, and tender, savory lamb chops with za’atar. The brisket, on the other hand, is about as classic as it gets—seasoned with salt and pepper, and slow-smoked over oak—but it gets a distinctive KG BBQ treatment after it takes a plunge into tangy pomegranate barbecue sauce.

You’ve heard about Franklin Barbecue. Your neighbor has heard about Franklin Barbecue. Your aunt’s cousin’s best friend who lives in Wisconsin has heard about Franklin Barbecue. Aaron Franklin has built a name for himself by making some of the best brisket in Texas (and possibly the world). You can get brisket that’s almost as good at a few other places in town, but what sets Franklin apart is how consistent they are—there’s never an off day.

Interstellar BBQ is a Central Texas-style barbecue joint that decided getting an A in “the classics” wasn’t enough and made up its own extra credit assignments. Brisket, pork ribs, and turkey here hold their own with all the big names in the Austin barbecue scene, but it’s the daily specials that keep us coming back. It’s where you’ll find things like Frito Pie sausages, smoked duck breasts, and gamey pulled lamb shoulder served in a warm and fluffy flour tortilla.

The barbecue (and sides) at Distant Relatives aims to highlight the flavors and textures of the African diaspora in America. That means strong spice profiles, classic preservation methods, and a nose-to-tail approach that puts everything from spare ribs to hog jowl side-by-side on the menu. It’s creative and so consistently great. Some of the sides and toppings change seasonally, but you can generally expect to see some menu staples like pulled pork sandwiches and brisket.

Micklethwait is where we usually take out-of-town guests that want a best-in-class barbecue experience without a multi-hour line. The meats and seasonings here generally lean classic, but the sides are where things really get fun. Coleslaw gets an upgrade in the form of lemon poppy slaw, and the citrus beet salad tastes like something we’d get at a restaurant with real chairs and tablecloths. They even bake their own bread, and the brisket and sausage are not to be missed.

You can (and should) show up to Rollin Smoke and get the classic staples—like brisket, ribs, and sausage. But it’s when they start to experiment a little and introduce some low-and-slow smoke flavor into otherwise familiar dishes that we’ll consider making a detour, especially for the smoked carne guisada burritos and al pastor tacos. And the best part is that while most barbecue joints in Austin close up long before dinner, Rollin Smoke is open late.

If you find yourself in Austin with a large group or just generally wanting barbecue in the later afternoon or evening, Terry Black’s is your answer. It has all the charm of older, more rustic places out in the country, but it’s conveniently located on Barton Springs Road, right in the middle of town. Brisket and beef ribs are the standouts here, but you won’t be disappointed with a fully loaded tray with all the classics, plus a few extra sides of mac and cheese.

Satisfying both the needs of Pflugerville residents and Austinites on their way to Ikea is Brotherton’s Black Iron Barbecue, a strip mall barbecue joint that’s way bigger than its unassuming exterior would lead you to believe. The brisket and sausage here are worth a short detour, but the sandwiches are worth a trip of their own. Grab the reuben that’s made with house-smoked pastrami, the Texas bánh mì to try Brotherton’s smoky take on a classic, or get the loaded grilled cheese.

It’s almost impossible to mention barbecue in Austin without La Barbecue’s name coming into the mix. That’s because they’ve been at it since 2011 (with a family history that goes back way, way longer), amassing a large, dedicated following in that time. The seasoning here leans heavy on the pepper—a make-or-break for some people—in both the barbecue and some of the sides. But once you make it through the inevitable line, you’d be hard-pressed to find a more beautiful piece of brisket.

What used to require a 45-minute drive out to Black’s Barbecue in Lockhart is now just a short drive to the UT area. The barbecue is still smoked at their location in Lockhart, but driven in daily. If you’re worried about the freshness factor, keep in mind that most of what you’re typically eating was cooked overnight—smoked meats travel and hold up surprisingly well. We’d recommend getting some brisket, and if you come with friends, make sure to get a massive beef rib to share.

The brisket at Moreno BBQ holds its own with the best in town—seasoned minimally with just salt and pepper—and the jalapeño cheddar sausage is some of the snappiest we’ve had. But the real reason you should be here is for the extensive menu of combinations, from barbacoa and pork belly tacos to brisket gouda mac and cheese and pulled pork nachos. Show up with a group and leave all the picky eaters happy. They also make a great smoked cheeseburger.

B. Cooper does the basics well—brisket, ribs, and sausage—but you have to get the lamb breast for the full experience. It’s not a cut we see often, and even rarer that we see it done this well. It will leave your fingers smelling like lamb for hours to follow, with rich, gamey flavor that will linger in your mind for even longer. And if you’ve ever gotten into a debate about vinegar vs cream-based coleslaws, you’ll be happy to know that they offer both here.

When people visit from out of town in the middle of the summer, we take them to Stiles Switch, because they offer a few things: beer on tap, an indoor air conditioned space (there’s also a patio), and most importantly, their always consistently solid traditional Central Texas barbecue. Expect fantastic brisket, gigantic peppery beef ribs, chunky pulled pork, and sausages with a good snap. We’re also big fans of their smoked chicken wings and their rich but airy corn casserole.