Paris may be the most romantic city, but it’s also one of the best for families on holiday—from carousels to puppet shows and toy boats you can push around a fountain with a stick. When the kids get hangry, we’ve got ideas for where to eat nearby.
LessKids love jumping off of Daniel Buren’s black-and-white columns and playing tag in the Palais’ enclosed manicured gardens. Afterwards, you’re in the 1st arr. near “Little Tokyo,” with great Asian restaurants all around: TonTon Ramen, Yatai, Kodawari and Juji-ya.
Of course, there’s the charming old-fashioned carousel and ferris wheel (seasonally) in these Louvre-adjacent royal gardens, but there’s also a playground, trampolines, and a pond with toy boats that you can rent. Go for hot (or cold) chocolate afterwards at Sébastian Gaudard or Angelina, if there isn’t a line!
The city’s main botanical garden in the 5th has a small zoo (“menagérie”) and a hall of evolution featuring a Noah’s ark of life-size models, as well as a carousel featuring rare and extinct creatures. Afterwards, head to the nearby Mosquée de Paris for delicious couscous (and service all day!) or, for the train-obsessed, walk 12 minutes across the river to Gare du Lyon and Le Train Bleu, the most beautiful restaurant in a train station.
Rent toy wooden boats to sail on the octagonal pond, head to the fenced-in playground in the park’s southwest corner (for a small entry fee), or go to a classic guignol puppet show at the Théâtre des Marionnettes—it’s as Parisian as it gets in this peaceful Left Bank park. Nearby Bread and Roses is the perfect spot for quiche, soups and sandwiches.
Get ice cream at Le Bac à Glace, then head with the gang to the playground and basketball court in this 7th arr. parklet when the sugar rush hits
This 8th arr. park is achingly romantic with its wild, English-style garden. Get picnic fare at the Marché de Levis first, then eat next to the play area—it’s one of the few parks where you can lie on the grass!
Kids love watching the canal locks in action on the Canal Saint-Martin, as boats are slowly lifted and lowered—the Ecluse du Temple at rue du Faubourg du Temple and Quai de Jemmapes is a great spot for viewing. Keep them fueled with a stop for an “escargot pastry” at Du Pain et des Idées on rue Yves Tudic.
You could spend hours in this massive 12th arr. park with botanical gardens, a zoo, and row boats! There’s a lively guinguette (outdoor café) called Rosa Bonheur in the park near Porte Jaune that does pizzas and other kid-friendly fare.
A nostalgic, old-school amusement park close to the Bois de Boulogne that parents will also love. There’s an Angelina outpost here as well, for the richest hot chocolate and other treats.
Paris’ secret escape in the 19th: families can let the kids run wild on its rugged paths, or picnic by the lake—there are various cafés and hidden corners to explore. There’s a Rosa Bonheur with picnic tables here, too. (On Sundays in summer, people come to drink wine in the late afternoon, then move inside for dancing.)
There’s much more to see beyond the boldfaced names (Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, Édith Piaf, Chopin…) in this moss-covered city of the dead in the 20th. Nearby, Café Martin is an old-school café with solid French fare.