We’ve all heard about Iberian ham and Valencian paella, but where to find the best of Barcelona’s kitchens? Culinary Backstreets has you covered. Our local guides reveal the must-try dishes of the Catalan capital, and where to track them down.
LessHefty veal and pork meatballs, creamy artichoke or eggplant omelets, hearty bocadillos stuffed with meat and veggies: these esmorzars de forquilla, or “fork breakfasts,” are how a Catalonian might start their day – especially at Can Ros, a tapas-and-bocadillos joint that’s open from 7am-midnight. Forget simple brunches of coffee and croissant, and come ready to eat. This traditional, and hearty, fork breakfast has made Can Ros most popular among locals.
The tortilla de patatas, or truita de patata in Catalan, holds a place of honor for Spaniards. At its most basic, the Spanish tortilla is made by frying thickly sliced potatoes and eggs in olive oil. One neighborhood temple devoted to this potato omelet is Les Truites in Sant Gervasi, run by the Miró family. Since 1978, they have developed 180 variations on the dish – all with free-range eggs. Try the classic thick potato with caramelized onion or the truffle tortilla with foie gras.
Traditionally, a homey, deep-fried dish made of leftovers, croquetas (croquettes) arouse deep childhood feelings of nostalgia for Barcelonians. Readily found at tapas joints and bodegas all over the city, they are best when crunchy on the outside and creamy on the inside. In the case of Nil Ros at Pollería Fontana, instead of leftovers, a whole chicken goes into making his wonderfully elevated croquettes – as well as a touch of Iberian ham. Also addictive are the mushroom and cheese croquetas.
The colorful, 1960s-era carbonated water siphons everywhere in Barcelona aren’t just retro decor – they’re the symbol of our beloved vermut ritual. The phrase hacer el vermut (literally “to do the vermouth”) has for decades described not only that delicious fortified wine, but any kind of pre-lunch aperitif. The Morro Fi project represents a new generation of vermouth in the city, with its excellently curated drinks, tapas and products. A small, sleek spot to partake in a classic ritual.
Barcelona’s bodegas are living monuments to the city’s history. Locals frequent their neighborhood bodega for the affordable bulk wine from the barrels to take home, vermut with anchovies, or other drinks and tapas. At Bodega Salvat in Sants, large wooden wine barrels perched on high shelves almost touch the ceiling, looking down on those drinking below with more than 100 years of local stories to tell. They still sell bulk wine, as well as an excellent house vermouth and dark beer.
Conservas, or foods preserved in cans and jars, are in the DNA of Catalonians and represent a culinary art that incorporates very high-quality natural ingredients and artisanal methods – one that has nothing to do with the canned tuna in US supermarkets. Quimet & Quimet gives this artisanal process the star treatment in its nearly 80 tapas, sandwiches and combination platters. Check out the bodega’s hard-to-find zamburiñas (small scallops from Galicia) or Granada sturgeon, to name a few.
Taktika Berri delights palates with tasty bite-sized pintxos, and Basque patrons are a guarantee of the venue’s irrefutable authenticity. Pintxos are tapas affixed to a piece of bread with a toothpick. Basque tradition dictates that they are presented open-air, spanning the length of the bar. So snag a plate, order a txakoli (Basque white wine) and grab what you can, being sure to try la gilda, the quintessential pintxo: anchovy, olive and guindilla pepper. Just be sure to arrive before opening.
Like any Mediterranean city, seafood is a big part of Barcelona’s cuisine, whether brought in from the untamed waters of Galicia, or fished from more local waters. For the freshest catch in Barcelona, head to the nautical-themed “Sailor’s Corner,” which has strong ties with local fisherman. Order the iconic grilled and fried fisherman’s tapas: a medley of clams, sardines, octopus, and more. Fried fish, fish stews, seafood casseroles and exquisite rice dishes are also hot items.
Lined with Valencian tiles and wooden rafters, this family affair in Sant Antoni is cozy and convivial. The open kitchen at the far end churns out Catalan-Valencian recipes that deftly navigate between familiarity and modernity. They are renowned for their rice dishes: and that means the famous Valencian paella. We’re also fans of the rice with sepionets (baby cuttlefish), tender garlic and clams, as well as fideuá and other seafood rice dishes. All are meant to be shared. Just like home.
An iconic tapas bar with a fantastic terrace in Nou Barris, La Esquinica is the perfect spot: great tapas, good prices, personable waiters and a familiar neighborhood feeling. Cured, fried or grilled, the tapas are simply made and delicious. Specials cover the spectrum of Spanish classics, from Galician-style octopus to Andalucian chipirones (fried baby squid), Cantabrian anchovies and Aragones delicacies. Most famous are the patatas bravas. No secrets, just quality.
Spanish aristocracy in the 1500s were crazy about turrón (a type of nougat), and these days it is not uncommon to see lines of people at La Campana for this Christmastime treat. Founded in 1850, the patisserie uses top-quality products for their turrones, including Marcona almonds and a delicious rosemary honey. Their noughts have intense flavors and textures, like extra-crunchy caramelized sugar in the egg yolk nougat or exceptionally smooth almond paste in the soft turrón.
A highly regarded gourmet food and wine shop, La Teca is equipped with its own cavas (caves) expressly for aging cheese. Catalonia produces the greatest variety of artisan cheeses of all the regions in Spain, with more than 150 kinds at last count. The oldest documented Catalan cheeses are mató (soft, spreadable and ricotta-like), serrat and the singular tupí. La Teca also has DOP cheeses and works with artisan producers to create new, unique local cheeses as well.
Catalonia has Spain’s greatest number of protected wine appellations. For a taste, La Vinya del Senyor (“The Lord’s Vineyard”) is a charming little wine bar just a stone’s throw away from its sister wine shop, Vila Viniteca. Share a bottle or sample a glass (with tapas) from the lengthy and impressive list of Catalan wines, especially reds. We like the young and lively Comunica Samsó from Montsant and the intense Priorat Les Cousins La Sagesse – strong, structured and direct.
Made without artificial interference, natural wines are no passing fashion, and Barcelona is the flagship city for it in Spain. At Contracorrent, sample from the 50-60 natural wines on offer from Catalan and Spanish small producers. Sicilian chef Nicola Drago from the Michelin-starred Celler Can Roca, spins out incredible bites to pair – try the table-top smoked beef or the refreshing ventresca (tuna belly) salad with fennel and citrus fruits.
Most production of cava, the Spanish sparkling wine, takes place in Catalonia. Bodega Bonavista is a wine shop and tapas bar with an impeccably curated selection of some 300 wines. You’ll find all kinds of cava, from sweet Dulce to a good Brut Nature. Look for the typical white grape varieties of xarel-lo, parellada and macabeo, which create fresh citrus flavors and bright notes of fruit and white flowers. The shop has tables for sipping and nibbling, as well as craft beer and other treasures.
In Spain, pork is serious business, a fundamental part of the diet here for millennia, and acorn-fed jamón ibérico is one very special (and often costly) product. At Jamonarium, a ham shop in Gràcia, hundreds of hams hang from the walls, top-notch jamón ibérico among them. Here, the jamón ibérico de bellota boasts a luxurious amount of fat, an incredibly silky, melting texture and uniquely sweet-salty flavors – as it should.
At the oldest food shop in Barcelona, open since 1851, 65 kilos of nuts can be roasted at a time in the Roman-style wood-burning oven. The end result is a llargueta almond with a unique personality – the warm smokiness dresses the nut without overpowering its natural flavor. Excellent Iberian Marcona almonds are also for sale. Sweet and soft, they have an almost buttery quality. Though they have an online shop, nothing beats a visit to this historic spot to check out the old oven in action.