Where to eat Italian in NYC when you aren’t willing to settle.
LessVia Carota, one of the best restaurants in NYC, doesn't take reservations, and there's pretty much always a wait of two or more hours. Obviously, that's kind of annoying, but it doesn't deter us from eating here. This place manages to stick out among thousands of Italian restaurants in NYC by making food that’s unfussy and uniformly delicious. A meal here should involve some of the dozen-plus vegetable dishes, the steak tartare-like svizzerina, and the cacio e pepe (which is non-optional).
From the folks at Carbone who brought you the $89 veal parm with a side of paparazzi, this Noho restaurant is a full-on production. It’s big, it’s flashy, and, against all odds, it actually has a personality. Torrisi is more Italian-ish than straight-up Italian, and the more-inventive dishes are just as good as the classics. For a fun celebratory dinner, this is one of your best options.
There are a ton of Italian restaurants in Brooklyn, but there’s nothing else like Lilia. The space feels like a glamorous, whitewashed warehouse, and their modern Italian food is always perfectly executed. While this place is great for special occasion dates and impressing out-of-towners, our favorite way to eat here is by grabbing a few seats at the bar. Start with a negroni and an order of squishy focaccia, and plan to go deep on pastas.
Whenever we recommend Emilio’s Ballato in Nolita to someone, we receive an answer along the lines of, “I’ve always wanted to go there, but I need some place that takes reservations.” To which we say: No you don’t. It’s high time you waited in line for some of the city’s best old-school Italian food, like exemplary baked clams, bolognese, and veal parm. And if you do end up sitting next to someone famous while dining, consider that not the point, but an added bonus.
Borgo is a seasonal restaurant in Nomad from the team behind Brooklyn spots like Diner and Roman’s, but it’s a lot less neighborhoody than its predecessors. Inside the sprawling restaurant, there’s impressively spaced-out tables, flickering taper candles, and a pasta dish called the timballo di annelletti, which tastes like an extra-fancy take on a can of SpaghettiOs. Classy without being stuffy, familiar but still inventive, save this restaurant for a special occasion.
Who needs the Amalfi Coast when you can have a meal-length vacation at Adrienne's? There’s something a little bit magical about this Broad Channel location, especially the back deck, with gorgeous waterfront views of Jamaica Bay. It’s like you’ve found yourself at the end of the world, only to discover they make excellent pastas out there. Sit outside beneath a cheerful, orange striped umbrella, and order the rigatoni bolognese, which comes with a fat, creamy blob of whipped ricotta.
Going to an Italian restaurant doesn’t have to mean spending $35 on three noodles. If you just breathed a sigh of relief, pay a visit to Cobble Hill’s Lillo Cucina, where almost everything is under $20, and it’s all excellent. The tiny, walk-in-only spot doesn’t sell alcohol or have a bathroom, but it makes up for it in free bread, and a recommendation for the best carbonara in Rome from Lillo himself. (Priceless.) Order tender artichokes swimming in olive oil, and saucy rigatoni alla gricia.
The menu at Fausto in Park Slope hasn’t changed much since it opened in 2017, and that’s one of the reasons why we like it so much. That, and the fact that the people in the kitchen know how to make a great bowl of pasta (which makes sense: both co-owners come from L'Artusi). Order things like hearty orecchiette with fennel-braised pork and some kale, or the punchy fettuccine with tomato sauce and calabrian chili.
Formerly located on Grove Street, in a room the size of a shipping container, I Sodi now has a larger home around the corner on Bleecker. It’s not as charming as the original, but now you have a better chance of snagging a table, so we’ll call it a draw. Like the plain farmhouse interior, the Tuscan food here isn’t anything too elaborate. Don’t skip the simple vegetable dishes, which are often just a pretense to eat cheese and olive oil, and focus on the pasta.
Misi is a Williamsburg restaurant from the people behind Lilia, and its basic premise is: f*ck entrées. This is an Italian restaurant where the menu has three sections: antipasti, pasta, and gelato. There are always 10 pastas on the menu, and choosing between them will be the hardest decision you make all year. But here's a tip: The best things at Misi are the simplest. Try the fettuccine with buffalo butter and black pepper, and don't skip the unbelievably good gelato.
Maybe you’ve heard of Rezdôra, the Flatiron spot that’s been serving little portions of fussy pasta to a packed house since it opened in 2019. We’re fans, but the sequel, Massara, is so much better. It’s just down the street, in a bi-level space with flagstone floors that make you feel like you’re intruding in someone’s Neapolitan villa. The menu is inspired by Campania, and, once again, there are obsessively engineered pasta. But they also have great wine, puffy pizzettes, and pistachio gelato.
The pasta at Marea is going to make you feel something. You may not be moved to tears, but when you take your first bite of octopus and bone marrow fusilli, you’ll feel like the main character in a coming-of-age movie who finally realizes what was missing all along. This fine-dining restaurant near Columbus Circle is one of our favorite places to eat pasta in NYC, simply because the options go way beyond usual suspects like linguine and clams or a frutti di mare spaghetti.
Arthur Avenue in the Bronx has plenty of places with decent red sauce fare. But Tra Di Noi is the only restaurant of the bunch where we can order anything off the chalkboard specials, and come out 100% satisfied. The 15-ish specials change every night, but expect things like meaty swordfish topped with crisp bread crumbs, and chicken marsala that pulls apart with the touch of a fork. Tra Di Noi opened in 2002, but it feels older, with checkerboard-tablecloth charm.
When you walk into Ci Siamo, you'll feel like you're checking into a nice hotel, about to start a vacation in Milan (despite the fact that you still have that meeting on "team dynamics" to get to after lunch). The menu centers around live-fire cooking, although your focus should be on the breads and pastas. Get the ricotta-filled agnolotti, and don't leave here without eating the caramelized onion torta.
Saying a meal will make you feel transported to Italy is frankly dumb, because at the end of it you’ll still be in NYC, where people don’t drink nearly enough red wine for their health. But when you sit at the bar at Roscioli, and watch a chef pour parmesan onto a steamy bowl of very al dente carbonara, you can get pretty damn close. This corner spot in Soho has a tasting menu in the cave-like downstairs, but we prefer the sunny upstairs alimentari.
The inside of Ortobello’s feels a little like a Roman trattoria, if you snatched it out of Italy and placed it on a corner in Mapleton, Brooklyn, next to a barbershop, and across the street from a restaurant called Pizza Daddy. The family-run spot opened in 1974, and it’s where you’ll find—we’re just going to go there—the best chicken parmesan in all five boroughs, and linguine with clams that has whole garlic cloves in it, crushed lightly and cooked gently.
Even though it’s always packed, we still think Don Angie doesn’t get the credit it deserves. Their Italian American menu—with its stuffed garlic flatbread and gnocchi with provolone—is very much doing its own thing, and the cocktail list is pretty cool too. The massive signature pinwheel lasagna for two is always great, but the garganelli with a meatball ragu is even better. Check out this West Village place at least once. You'll appreciate the creativity.
There are a lot of big-name Italian restaurants in Lower Manhattan, but don’t forget about Da Toscano in Greenwich Village, which stands out by leaning into big flavors and unique takes on familiar dishes. The orecchiette, for example, is like a distant cousin of orecchiette with sausage and broccoli rabe—here, the broccoli rabe is made into pesto, the sausage is in small pieces that blend into the sauce, and the ultra-richness is cut by slightly spicy pickled cherry peppers.
Sometimes, we dream that we’re in an old farmhouse in the Italian countryside. And we can come pretty close to recreating this dream by heading to Il Buco in Noho. A night at this restaurant—which opened as an antique store in 1994—feels a rustic escape from the city, and the mains here really shine. The menu changes seasonally, but you can't go wrong with the bistecca and lamb chops, and if they happen to have the risotto on the menu, you must order it.
There’s a correct way to do L’Artusi, and this is it: You come in a group of two, and you sit at the bar. You order the roasted mushrooms with pancetta and a fried egg, and then you share two pastas. You drink wine. You go home happy. A dinner at this West Village restaurant is about as good a date night as they come, and that probably won't change anytime soon. The pastas here are always immaculate, and the wagyu carpaccio is the best around.
When it comes to eating out in NYC, you almost always have to compromise in some way—but not at LaRina. At this casual restaurant in Fort Greene, you don’t just get great pasta, great prices, or a great patio. You get all three of those things. Their menu changes often, but if it's available, get the smoked spaghetti. LaRina is somewhere you can walk into on a random weeknight for dinner, and you'll feel like a lucky person every time you're here.
Ah yes, stuffed farfalle with tobiko and buttermilk foam, just like they do it in small-town Sicily. As the Minion-yellow dining room and martini with garlic bread vodka suggest, San Sabino, from the Don Angie people, leans non-traditional. The spritz-fueled West Village spot is Italian American with a bit of Malibu tossed in, and it’s a fun place to listen to surf rock while you dip ritz crackers in a buttery crab dip. Dabble in the pastas, but focus on the small plates.
At Nonna Dora’s, there are no dubious claims about bolognese being sourced from a grandma who only exists in a black-and-white stock photo on the wall. Nonna Dora is a real 86-year-old woman who comes into her namesake restaurant to make fresh pasta every morning. Everything at this Kips Bay restaurant looks amazing, and everyone is always claiming that their particular bowl of pillowy carbohydrates is to die for.
SoleLuna is a charming Sunnyside restaurant where you can have a coffee at the bar during the day or stop by later at night when the space fills up with locals sharing simple pastas and bottles of wine. This is a quintessential neighborhood restaurant where they keep the menu simple and the owner comes to check on you wherever you’re sitting. The menu has staples like a basic lasagna and a fresh, bright pollo al limone—but pay special attention to the dinner specials.
Do you want to sit at a table for six even though you’re only a party of two? Does some bacon sound good in a bacon-less spinach fettuccine? The team at this Italian spot on Staten Island will accommodate any reasonable request—and the food here is really good. Order the perfectly al dente rigatoni with crispy bits of prosciutto, and don't leave without eating the outstanding beef Wellington.