“My favourite restaurant in the city, and arguably the world! So much so that for the Diaspora fifth-birthday celebrations, we flew them out to cook a series of dinners with us, and it was an absolute dream. The menu changes regularly, but as a rule, the chhotas (small plates) tend to be even better than the badas (sharing plates), the cocktails are excellent, the desserts are a revelation, and the hospitality is second to none. And when you do go, give the team a big squeeze from me!”

“Mumbai is often called the City of Dreams, and back in the ’30s and ’40s, the city saw a huge influx of South Indian migrants from Udupi, Karnataka, dreaming of a better life. These pure-veg, multigenerational family–run restaurants quickly became known for affordable, clean, and quick-service South Indian food. Cafe Madras is one of these, and you should get literally everything there, but especially the rasam, the rava dosa, and the filter coffee!”

“There is nothing more fun than spending a Sunday morning wandering around the leafy, art deco–filled streets of Matunga, eating your way around the many Udupi restaurants. At Ayyappan Idli, get the thatte idli and the garden delight dosa!”

“At Idli House, another Udupi place I love, get the seasonal jackfruit idlis and the moode steamed in screw pine leaves. Feast on the best selection of chutneys in the city.”

“In my family, crab is our celebration food. Birthdays, reunions, anniversaries are all marked with the over-the-top extravagance of a butter garlic crab (BGC). The irony is that while BGC is an Indo-Chinese concoction, it’s one that you’ll only find at Mangalorean restaurants—I don’t make the rules! If BGC isn’t your scene, might I recommend Gajalee’s other, non-Mangalorean, pricey show pony: the tandoori crab.”

“Trishna is one of our family-favorite butter garlic crab spots. In general, a jumbo crab will run you anywhere from ₹ 3000 to ₹ 5000 (it’s a lot!), whereas literally every other dish on the menu will be under ₹ 500. Get the crispy fried bombil, refreshing glasses of solkadhi, coconut-laden clam sukka, and silky prawn gassi with light-as-air neer dose.”

“Ferry Wharf is run by the matriarch of the Gajalee family, another one of our go-to butter garlic crab spots. We rotate between Gajalee, Trishna, and Ferry Wharf.”

“Once a key part of the social fabric of 20th-century Indian cities, Irani cafés were originally set up by Zoroastrians and Shia Muslims fleeing persecution in Iran to be affordable, efficient eating and meeting places, but are now slowly fading as cities urbanize. Of the few left, Kyani & Co is the spot of my school days, where the kheema pav, bun maska, mutton puff, mawa cakes, and raspberry soda have all been perfectly delicious since 1904!”

“For heavier Irani café fare, there’s Britannia & Co, which is famous for being run by arguably Bombay’s favorite Parsi uncle (RIP Mr. Kohinoor). Order the famous berry pulao, salli boti (a mutton curry topped with crispy potato bits), caramel custard, and a crisp fresh-lime soda to wash it all down.”

“Iranian cafés are famous for their bheja (brain) dishes, and our sourcing manager, Kumud, introduced me to the liver masala, kheema pav, and bheja fry at Olympia Coffee House: all excellent!”

“The global specialty coffee movement thus far has mostly been about producers in the global South, making beautiful coffee for consumers in the Western world. I guess that’s why the Indian specialty coffee movement right now feels so special: It’s Indian coffee for and by Indian farmers, roasters, and baristas. The coffee is very good (all hail the rise of robusta!), and the pastries are truly excellent.”

“Especially during Ramzan, when the streets of this iconic Muslim neighborhood are at their most festive, M. Ali Road is home to some of the best food in the city. I highly recommend Khaki Tours’ Mohalla Munch walk for an in-depth guide, but here’s my highlight reel if you want to do a self-guided version. Begin hungry, and pace yourself! Start at Haji Tikka, where the seekh kebabs and kasoori chicken tikka are unreal.”

“At Surti 12 Handi, 12 parts of a goat are cooked in 12 separate pots over charcoal, so each part is cooked to perfection. You should order the nalli nihari and the paya and anything else the owner, Nayeem Uncle, recommends!”

“For dessert, head to the 136-year-old Taj Ice Cream for the best hand-churned seasonal fruit ice creams. I love the sitaphal flavor.”

“Noorani Sweets has divine kesar badam milkshakes and freshly fried malpuas. And if by some miracle you have room for a kebab stop, there is an incredible khiri (cow udder) kebab vendor right outside Noorani who makes the detour worthwhile!”