Need help navigating where to eat in Tbilisi, Georgia? Culinary Backstreets has you covered. Known for our intimate food tours and engaging reads, CB’s local guides have handpicked the Georgian city’s most essential spots.
LessEvery Tbilisi neighborhood needs its beloved corner spot, and Kutkhe, true to its name ("corner"), is just that, with a dangerous allure. This friendly shop serves up some of the city's most delectable, juicy khinkali alongside fresh draft beer in freezer-chilled pint mugs, creating a simple, perfect pairing that has locals and epicureans alike enthusiastically sharing its praises.
Shavi Lomi’s artistic, flea-market charm is housed in an old house with garden seating. Chef Meriko Gubeladze is the visionary here, crafting hearty, original takes on traditional Georgian cooking – less fusion, more of a refrigerator surprise where new dishes are born. Expect inventive items like green ghomi (grits), "khachapuritos" (quesadilla-like lavash creations), or the impressive Ghobi, a big bowl brimming with shareable appetizers like jonjoli, local cheeses, and various phkali.
A Sololaki institution, Dukani Racha is a Georgian greasy spoon gloriously impervious to change. For decades, this chummy, brick-walled cellar has drawn loyalists with its cold display of classic appetizers – beef tongue, salads, cheeses, and badrijani (walnut-stuffed eggplant). Presided over by Manana, the famously surly director, the service is unapologetically old-school Georgian – part of its enduring charm.
Venture past the Deserter’s Bazaar to an often-overlooked part of town, and you’ll find Duqani Kasumlo, a kebab joint with a semi-cult following. Owner Leonid Chkhikvishvili proudly calls it an "Azerbaijani-Georgian fusion restaurant," and a standout feature is the abundance of lamb – a relative rarity for a typical Georgian lunch spot. The lamb kebabs are the undisputed house specialty, arriving exceptionally juicy and tender, garnished with thinly sliced onions and served atop fresh lavash.
In a city where breakfast culture has been traditionally understated, Kikliko emerged as a game-changer. Opened by three friends in a refurbished ground-floor apartment, this warm spot offers a menu developed by chef Elene Kakabadze that subtly blends Western and Georgian influences. No thin blini here, pancakes are fluffier and dollar-sized. Must-tries include the creamy rich cottage cheese stuffed cakes and the eponymous "kikliko," a delightful Georgian take on French toast.
Just a 15-minute drive from the capital's summer swelter, Armazis Kheoba offers a refreshing escape tucked in a steep gorge along the Mtkvari River. Unleash the kids and savor lungfuls of fresh air, all while indulging in specialties from the Kakhetian chef. Don't miss the remarkable beef liver mtsvadi, roasted in natural sausage casing, or the mtsvadi asorti (assorted barbecued meats). As evening approaches, a folk band often performs, turning a leisurely afternoon into a veritable holiday.
Like a musician who values tone over riffs, chef Giorgi Iosava grooves on simplicity rather than lavishness, cooking traditional Georgian fare with a twist. Shkmeruli, garlic chicken, in a creamy paste rather than a milky sauce. Ghomi with millet instead of corn meal. This must-order is served with a ladle of tender veal walnut stew, kharcho. Iosava’s wife, Natalia, works the dining room, cozily decorated with bric-a-brac antiques and oil paintings. We adore her wild herb-infused chacha brandy.
Alubali's lovely botanical patio serves some of the lightest, freshest fare in town. Homemade sulguni cheese is made on site, served solo or stuffed in chivishtari, the fluffiest of cornbreads. Most of the menu is west Georgian Megrelian cuisine, like elargi, melt in your mouth cheesy grits. Or kupati, a piquant paprika and garlic pork entrail sausage. Alubali is owned by four women. One, Monica, likens it to a “a village where you’re sitting outside, and everything is tasty.”
Seven winemakers own this cozy cellar in the heart of historic Sololaki. They call it Vino Underground; we call it wine heaven. Most of the 100 family-produced Georgian wines are made as they’ve been for thousands of years: in buried ceramic vessels. What sets them apart is the winemakers’ utmost care for the vines. Whites include straw-colored Kisi and Rkatsiteli, Georgia’s most popular white. Wash them down with a few savory snacks, like sulguni cheese and spinach-like ekala.