A restored orphanage in the Lower Garden District that’s rock-and-roll yet regal. With a lush pool, hip bar, gorgeous restaurant and a Vietnamese bakery, it’s tempting not to leave all weekend. But its Magazine Street location makes it easy to explore the French Quarter, CBD, and Uptown.

Set in an 1890s modern-Victorian mansion, all 14 guestrooms are uniquely designed, with record players and vinyl collections from nearby Peaches Records. A stay here plays out like a moveable feast, from patio cocktails to the lobby bar, to the dining room and always-buzzing pool. Dogs are treated like royalty, and the staff bends over backwards. Did we mention the pool?

The ASH team built on the property’s former life as a Catholic church, rectory, schoolhouse and convent, layering in tapestries, French antiques, and cheerful gingham prints. The result feels soulful, intimate, and truly unique. There’s no lobby, just a warren of nooks and crannies and places to linger. Don’t miss the Elysian Bar, even if you’re not staying there.

A true New Orleans institution. Expect a line, embrace the diner vibes, and prepare for some hilarious banter with the waitstaff. The short-order cooks have been doing this for decades and are some of the best. Get a burger for breakfast, it’s a thing!

At least once in your life, you must go to Café du Monde in the French Quarter. There are no options besides café au lait, beignets, and orange juice—all of which are perfect. It’s a de rigueur tourist stop that more than lives up to the legend. Pro-tip: bring cash, and don’t wear black or inhale.

New Orleans was made for the epic lunch. Dress up (jackets are required for men) and settle in for shrimp remoulade, oysters rockefeller, and a long, boozy afternoon you’ll talk about for years. “Friday Lunch” at this institution has been a citywide tradition for decades.

For brunch, you’ll hardly do better than Commander’s Palace in the Garden District. Get a round of 25-cent martinis and the ethereal bread pudding soufflé. The Sunday Jazz Brunch is a beloved experience for locals and visitors alike.

New Orleans got lucky when chef Nina Compton and her husband, Larry Miller, made it their home. No one explores the city’s Caribbean influences better. Don’t miss the marinated shrimp or the curried goat—and definitely don’t skip Erika Flowers’ cocktails.

Clany’s feels like it’s from another era. The location Uptown, small dining room, and longtime bartender, Garth, all add to the charm. Expect bow-tied waiters, white tablecloths, and an extensive old-world wine list. Sit at the bar and chat up Garth, who has probably worked there 20 years.

Mosquito Supper Club is like eating at someone’s house with friends you haven’t yet met. James Beard award winner Melissa Martin serves food from her bayou upbringing that’s earthy, rich, and far from the cartoonish Cajun cliches. The pre-fixe menu changes nightly, but the crawfish étouffée and oyster soup are stand-outs.

Grab a dozen oysters at the standup bar at Pascale’s Manale, where Uptown T has been shucking for 35 years. Buy a dozen-oyster token at the bar and lay it down on his worn marble counter—he’ll slide over Gulf oysters one at a time while you mix your own cocktail sauce.

One of the best po’ boys in town, perfected over the course of a hundred years and four generations in the same family. Part of its allure is that it is stuck in time—same sign, same walls and tables, same Barq’s out of a bottle. It’s messy, packed, and perfect. Order a shrimp po’ boy “dressed” which comes with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayo.

Avoid Bourbon Street and retreat to this oasis, where you can sip a Negroni in the lush courtyard. Go around 3pm to hear birdsong mixed with jazz drifting over the brick wall from The Court of Two Sisters next door.

A trip to New Orleans isn’t complete without a Pimm’s Cup or Bloody Mary at this classic establishment. The bartenders have been around so long they’re almost as famous as the bar itself.

The quintessential New Orleans dive: Christmas lights strung year-round, cheap beer, and often someone’s pet joining the fun. Don’t go early, this is your last stop of the night. Something weird and wonderful always happens here, especially during Jazzfest.

The James Beard people like it, and so will you. Drinks by bar legend Chris Hannah are creative and built on a sturdy chassis of classic cocktails, like brandy crusta and the Sazerac. It’s a bit off The Quarter’s beaten path but well worth hunting down.

This Bywater warehouse of culinary antiques is a treasure trove of gilded sconces, Belle Époque bistro glasses, and impeccably attired, charming gentlemen ready to show you the Georgian decanter you didn’t know you needed.

The Closet at the St. Claude Social Club specializes in flamboyant, pre-owned party wear and accessories, much of it available to rent. What began as a Mardi Gras pop-up is now a permanent mother lode of vintage sparkly dresses, beaded and feathered everything, and amazing costume jewelry. It’s like playing dress up in a New Orleans native’s costume closet.

A must-see music venue unlike anything else. Hearing jazz here is like going to church, no matter what you believe. Famous for its evening jazz shows, some might put this in the “touristy but worth it” category, but if you want to experience New Orleans jazz outside of a bustling bar, a ticket to a show may be…just the ticket.