Need help navigating Athens’ fantastic food scene? Culinary Backstreets has you covered. Known for our intimate food tours and engaging reads, CB’s local Athens guides share their favorite hidden-in-plain-sight spots.
LessHidden away in Satovriandou, this tiny shop has been our go-to souvlaki spot for years. The décor remains the same since their 1951 opening: old-fashioned Coca-Cola ads and a certificate from the souvlaki maker trade union that Lefteris belongs to. There is only one kind of souvlaki here, a spectacular, spicy beef kebab cooked on a traditional grill. This purist’s version is simply tossed with sliced onion and parsley in a grilled pita. No sauce means you can truly taste the succulent meat.
This Ambelokipi shop is one of our favorite addresses for farm-fresh dairy goods. Savor the organic goat’s and sheep’s milk yogurt – some of the best in Greece. The wall of refrigerators also stocks kefir, rice pudding, and incredible homemade pies. Every item comes from the family farm. We can thank the latest generation of Tsioukas, three brothers, for expanding their century-old milk company. They haven’t grown too big - they do deliveries themselves in tune with their farm-to-consumer ethos.
We’re lucky to have found this old school, Pagrati pastry shop. The endless trays of cookies of all shapes and sizes will make you feel like a kid in a candy store. But it’s the cakes that make us swoon. Pick up a ravani, a semolina-based cake drenched in citrus syrup. On New Year’s Eve and Day, join the lines of Athenians for the politiki vasilopita. This fluffy sweet brioche is known as “lucky cake,” for whomever gets the slice with the coin inside, has good fortune for the year to come.
You could easily miss this tiny, hole-in-the-wall. Just look for the line outside of people waiting to devour some of Athens’ best pies. The husband-and-wife team fill handmade phyllo dough with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Of the 14 flavors, a must is the spring cheese pie with chives and mint. We’re also fans of the fish pie, the chicken and caramelized onions pie, and the vegan options. You can even get them with scrambled eggs (kayiana) since the Greeks eat pies morning to night.
Peinirli is one of the tastiest Greek culinary traditions from Asia Minor and the Black Sea. Find our favorites at this downtown, takeout-only spot. Shaped like a boat, perinirli can be stuffed with kasseri cheese, pastourma and soutzouki (spicy cured meats), and a sunny-side-up egg. The melted butter brushed on the hot dough makes the pastry boats a surefire hit. And the dough is what makes Peinirli Ionias so beloved. It’s hand-kneaded instead of a “soulless machine,” says owner Spryos.
With red & white checkered tablecloths and fresh flowers at the wooden tables, this taverna brims with familial charm. Sophie, the original owner’s granddaughter, runs Kissos with her dad. The olive oil is made on his farm while the recipes come from Sophie’s grandmother and mom. Best sellers include crispy zucchini chips, grilled lambchops, minty meatballs, and delicious dolmades. Everyone feels like family with the complimentary desserts: loukoumades (honey-drizzled donuts) or yogurt.
Greece is one of the world’s oldest wine-producing countries. To taste the great domestic varieties, head to this sleek wine bar. Whether at the inside bar or outdoor patio, the friendly owners/brothers are happy to help you choose. For reds, try dry, rich xinomavro, aka Greek merlot. Fans of white will enjoy malagousia, a nearly extinct varietal. Snacks include barley rusks (fat croutons in olive oil) and a fantastic cheese platter. FYI, smoking isn’t allowed, a rarity in Athens.
Savor Crete’s incredible culinary culture in central Athens. Olive oil, cracked wheat, wine, and cured meats like xidato loukaniko (pork sausage) and apaki (vinegar-cured pork tenderloin). The smoked graviera and dried athotyro (like ricotta salata) are among our favorite cheeses. Taste Crete’s rich, botanical side with culinary herbs and teas like maloitira, “mountain tea.” Owner Dimitris Katakis took over the small deli from his mom. Ever passionate about Crete, he’s happy to guide you.