Rising from the middle of Montreal is the peak of Mt. Royal, from which the city got its name. The good news is that the views from the top have been preserved for everyone since it’s protected as a park—one of the best urban green spaces in the world. Mosey up the steep staircases or bike up the curvy paved roads to emerge at one of several viewpoints that look over the St. Lawrence River and Old Montreal. You’ll be hanging out with local Montrealers, who picnic, drink wine, and simply relax.

There are two major markets in the city that every visitor should check out for food stalls, fresh produce, and local fare. The first is Jean-Talon Market, northwest of the city center (but a quick metro ride away) in the neighborhood of Little Italy. There, you’ll find a warren of fresh cheese, veggies, and meats from nearby farms, as well as Quebecois specialties such as maple pies. You can explore the market’s surrounding neighborhoods with the help of a local expert, as well.

Montreal is widely considered to have some of the best bagels in the world—smaller and denser than their famous cousins in New York City. This is thanks to the robust Jewish community in Montreal (around a quarter of all Jewish people in Canada call the city home), which has included such members as the singer Leonard Cohen. Explore the old Jewish neighborhood of Outremont on a walking tour, trying classics like the smoked meat sandwich at Lester’s Deli.

It’s not often you board a boat floating on the chilly St. Lawrence River … to get a massage. But that’s exactly what’s in store when visiting Bota Bota, a riverboat converted into a spa and located just steps from the famous Old Port. Here you can indulge in facials, massages, pools of varied temperatures, and sauna rooms. After your experience, continue your relaxation with a drink in the neighborhood, perhaps at the basement speakeasy Clandestino, by the Notre-Dame Basilica.

Considered one of the most impressive plant collections in the world, the Montreal Botanical Garden stretches over 190 acres (75 hectares) in the north of the city. The complex features a mixture of indoor and outdoor spaces with plants from all over the world. Highlights include the Chinese Garden, Japanese Garden, and First Nations Garden, each meticulously constructed to honor both culture and botany, as well as a huge plant sculpture of a woman that doubles as a fountain.

Montreal is a city built for intellectuals. Three major universities are nestled amidst the city blocks, including English-language McGill University and French-language Université de Montréal. What that means for visitors is that, in addition to their picturesque campuses, there is a plethora of art-house cinemas, bilingual bookstores, and affordable eats in the city. Check out Cinéma Moderne in the Mile-End neighborhood for an indie flick and a coffee or beer.

The largest art museum in Canada, the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts (MMFA) plays host to a varied and deep collection. Browse the building’s five pavilions, some newly expanded, set around a central courtyard just steps from Mt. Royal. The museum houses works by Rodin, Degas, and El Greco, but the real highlight is the unique exhibition of Canadian and Quebecois art. Make sure also to explore the events offered, which are routinely presented bilingually.

As soon as summer rolls around, Montrealers embrace the season by taking the plunge at one of the city’s many nearby beaches. Jean-Doré Beach, for instance, is a 5-minute drive from the Old Port on nearby Notre Dame Island. A touch further, Cap-Saint-Jacques Nature Park (at the far end of the Island of Montreal, about 30 minutes from the city center) promises a bit more seclusion. And if you’re a thrillseeker at heart, you can give white-water rafting in the nearby Lachine Rapids a try.

One of the best reasons to visit Montreal is the annual Jazz Festival, held every summer for about a week in the Quartier des Spectacles borough. In 2004, the festival was recognized as the largest of its kind in the world by Guinness World Records, and it gets bigger every year—now attracting more than 3,000 artists from more than 30 countries. But if you miss those shows, Montreal is a great city for live music: Check out the House of Jazz in the suburb of Laval or Modavie closer to downtown.

Expo 67 was one of the most popular World’s Fairs of the 20th century, and its legacy remains a point of pride for Montrealers today. The city’s mayor at the time, Jean Drapeau, led a pioneering effort to take the Expo as a serious opportunity to celebrate Canada’s 100th anniversary. On St. Helen’s Island, check out the Biosphere, a unique glass dome that houses an environmental museum and originally formed part of the US pavilion at the Expo.