Why go to just one panadería when you can go to a dozen?
LessIf you’re planning a picnic in Parque Chapultepec, grab some sourdough at Marne first. And if it’s too chilly or rainy for that, come to Marne anyway—they serve breakfast and lunch, with seating both inside and out. Go with any bread-heavy dish, like the french toast topped with a fistful of berries or the croque madame with a perfect slick of bechamel. The chocolate croissants are great, too, and on-par with what you’ll find in France.
Ficelle does French pastries, and does them really well. While you can close your eyes and point to pretty much anything in the display cases and walk away happy, the canelés are a must—they’re nice and crunchy on the outside and soft and doughy on the inside. They do special collaborations monthly (a recent one was with the chef behind Em and Martinez), and they’re one of the few places in Mexico City that make éclairs. If the space is full, take your haul to Parque España.
What started as a bakery for Eduardo García’s Máximo Bistrot and Lalo is now unintentionally a speakeasy for pastry lovers. To get in, ring the bell on the street, wait for the buzzer, then follow the winding, shadowy alley to a Nordic-minimalist room with an open kitchen offering pastries, breads, and sandwiches. Zero in on the guava “croffin” (croissant and muffin hybrid), the perfect balance of crispy and light, with pastry cream and almonds adding extra magic.
There are only eight small outdoor tables at this consistently crowded panadería in Condesa, so try to come by on the off hours (either right around when they open, or before/after 12-2pm) to snag a seat if you want a sit-down meal. The BLT on a baguette is always terrific, as is the ham and cheese that’s stacked with heaps of meat and has the perfect ratio of creamy gouda, mayo, and dijon. On your way out, scoop up at least one oreja for the road.
Pancracia is a modest takeaway shop with no seating on a tree-lined street in Roma Norte serving incredible focaccia and traditional Mexican conchas (though you should also keep an eye on their Instagram for their daily specials). But the best thing is their vigilante: a croissant that’s half the normal size, but with double the butter. If you want to sit somewhere nearby, head to Plaza Luis Cabrera.
Pasteleria Suiza has been a neighborhood institution since 1942, and not much has changed since. It can get slammed around holidays like Día de Muertos or Día de Reyes, when people line up out the door for pan de muerto or rosca de reyes. Head here for a classic concha, oreja, or polvorón, but don’t plan on staying long—everything’s takeout and they don’t sell coffee, but you can get some at La Balance next door.
Cayetana is an in-and-out type of place (there’s only four tables total) but it’s worth a quick pit stop if you’re on your way to Parque México. But make sure to plan ahead—it’s closed Mondays and Tuesdays, and their best seller, a wonderfully fluffy bacon and maple roll, is only available on the weekends. If you miss that window, the gluten-free glazed pumpkin muffin is a fantastic plan B. The coffee’s great too, especially their Mexican hot chocolate with a shot of espresso.
Mätre makes all of their pastries with a pinch from the original sourdough starter they’ve had from day one, which is a fun little story you can tell whoever you’re waiting in line with at this spot in Lomas de Chapultepec. Beyond baked goods like scones de arándano and bomba de dulce de leche, they also do sandwiches, plus brunch on the weekends. If you want to hang out for a bit with a book after you order, stop by Libros, Libros, Libros, an English bookstore next door beforehand.
Cuina is huge—there’s a big covered patio with several trees, one of which is in the center of a wraparound bar. If you’re there for breakfast and the pumpkin pancakes are on the menu, go for those. For lunch, our favorite dish is the fideuà de mariscos, which is basically a paella with pasta instead of rice. And if you’re just there for baked goods, the banana cinnamon roll and palmera de mantequilla are two of the best picks.
If you live in Lomas de Chapultepec, a residential neighborhood west of Bosque de Chapultepec, Odette is likely your spot. And if you don’t live there but are on your way to someone’s house for dinner in the area, Odette is also your spot. Their box of nine homemade rochers is a gold star-level hostess gift, as are their cakes, like the pavlova with berries and the pastel flor de sal with Belgian chocolate. It’s mandatory to order their crujiente de guayaba.
There are a few Bakers locations in Mexico City, but the quiet, shady spot on Calle de Durango in Roma is the best one for sitting with a book in between a long comida and your dinner reservation. They do great (and humongous) chocolate hazelnut croissants, plus individual raspberry tartes. If you’re in town during Día de Muertos, definitely order their pan de muerto and a hot chocolate.