Author and broadcaster Natasha Fraser has lived and worked in Paris since 1989. While her writing and television work has taken her far and wide, to Paris she has always returned. Natasha shares a deeply personal insider’s guide.
LessRecently, I discovered the Hotel de L’Abbaye, one of Saint-Germain-des-Prés' best-kept secrets. The Italian film actor, Marcello Mastroanni, resided there and you can understand why. The guests whisper, the rooms are stylishly cosy and there’s a beautiful secret garden at the back.
In the heart of the Rive Gauche (Left Bank) is the wonderful Jacques Garcia-designed L’Hotel where Oscar Wilde died. According to Rupert Everett—who acted in, wrote and directed The Happy Prince—Monsieur Wilde’s ghost dwells on the upper landing, looking down.
For those who require a spa and swimming pool, the grand dame, Hotel Lutetia—an iconic Left Bank landmark transformed by the architect, Jean-Michel Wilmotte—also has a restaurant and café.
Central, charming, and with an excellent spa. And for those who enjoy a nightcap, it’s on the same street as the stylish Chateau Voltaire.
Also on the Rive Droit, exacting individuals I've consulted, like businessman Peter Soros, swear by Le Bristol but I’m personally more Le Meurice when it comes to palace hotels. You can't really go wrong with either though.
Also on the Rive Droit, exacting individuals I've consulted, like businessman Peter Soros, swear by Le Bristol but I’m personally more Le Meurice when it comes to palace hotels. You can't really go wrong with either though.
If home décor appeals, check out Bloom Paris. Considered le must have by chic Parisians, it’s charged by owner Pauline Henin’s passion for floral prints and vibrant colors. “I detest black in the home,” the former television producer admits. Lined up between the mint green walls of her sixteenth arrondissement boutique, Henin’s home collection also includes Indian block pyjamas, Suzani bedspreads and South African tableware.
On the Left Bank, Liwan is another ideal place for gifts. Run by the delightful Christine Bergstrom and Dina Haida, it’s the Parisian version of an Aladdin’s Cave, boasting kaftans, satin slippers, Syrian soaps and kitchenware.
If you're intrigued by the power of fossils, minerals and stones, do seek out natural stone suppliers, La Naturelle d’Eve, just by the Gustave Moreau Museum.
Visit Bangla Begum’s atelier for unique costume jewellery. Designed by Fanny Boucher, the coquettish yet edgy range includes the Palermo earrings, the saucy boob ring and Lover’s Necklace. The unusual names and use of metallic colors suggest one foot in the past and one firmly in the present.
By haute luxury standards, the newish Dior flagship on the avenue Montaigne is a triumph. Also recommended: do reserve La Galerie Dior museum and the Monsieur Dior restaurant (well in advance)—both are excellent.
In the heart of the sixteenth arrondissement, Le Flandrin is one of those rare delights. Run by the siblings Claire and Gilles Malafosse (they also own Loulou) it manages to feel contemporary with well-spaced tables, spare décor, soaring ceilings and a vast exterior terrace. Classic French food and generous portions feel thoroughly Parisian, in the best sense.
For supper on a Saturday, book a table at the Bar de Près. You’ll find Asiatic fusion food at its finest; the sashimi melts in your mouth, the lighting flatters and the banquettes create cosiness.
I first reviewed Le Square Trousseau, way back in the 1990s on the recommendation of the designer, Jean-Paul Gaultier. I am happy to report that the staff’s warmth and high standards continue today.
I am happy to report that the staff’s warmth and high standards continue today, and their crunchy Ile Flottante is unbeatable.
Of course, Paris is full of spectacular museums and galleries. Visit the magical tapestries at Musée de Cluny.
Do reserve La Galerie Dior museum and the Monsieur Dior restaurant (well in advance)—both are excellent.
I recommend a visit to the galerist, Alexandre Biaggi.
Check out Danielle Cillien Sabatier’s book recommendations at Librairie Galignan.
Have a chinwag with antiquarian, Pierre Passebon, at Galerie du Passage in the Passage Véro-Dodat.
Visit the soul-nourishing Musée Gustave Moreau.
If musically inclined, check out the Philarmonie de Paris and Opera de Paris. The acoustics are sensational, and the audience is multi-generational—a welcome sight.
Translator Yasmine Seale and the writer Peter Stephan Jungk, swear by the Marché d’Aligre in the eleventh arondissement. (Open Tuesday - Saturday)