In spring, the Bulgari hotel is a winner thanks to its surprising garden. When the wisteria blooms and the camellias come out, an afternoon aperitivo in the expansive courtyard is a lovely respite for travelers and Milanese alike. The garden borders the city’s botanical garden, and there’s no better lunch than pasta pomodoro under the trees.

Our favorite grand hotel in the city—independent, slightly old-school, and perfectly Milanese. Verdi lived (and died) here, and the place still reeks of history. It was recently refreshed by Studio Dimore, and it’s so good it feels like it’s always been this way. The service is no-fuss—other hotels are a bit friendlier, but no other hotel in town feels as Milanese.

Prada made the unusual decision to buy this beloved Milanese café, and once you step inside you understand why. The pistachio-green interiors are so elegant, but you really come here for the perfect cappuccino and pastries. The original Corso Magenta location (founded in 1824) is our favorite—make sure to stand at the bar with the chic Milanese crowd.

During design week, one phrase echoes across Milan: “See you at Basso?” This retro bar is the birthplace of the Negroni Sbagliato, served in comically oversized glasses. It’s not central, but always worth the pilgrimage, and the atmosphere is unbeatable—where else can you see rockstars, basset hounds, and sciura bumping elbows?

If you’re craving a risotto Milanese, this is the place. This cozy, old-school trattoria has been serving the classics for decades—saffron risotto, ossobucco, and other Lombard staples done exactly right.

A classic Milanese lunch spot near the station that feels like a real discovery. The dining rooms are lively but not scene-y, and you’ll probably never run into someone you know here.

Family-run for decades, they serve very traditional Milanese dishes. The interiors are exactly what you hope for in a trattoria—classic, understated, beautiful—and the waiters have been here forever and will remember you when you return. Cotoletta alla Milanese, ossobuco, saffron risotto: it’s not a light meal, but absolutely worth it!

Another family institution, this one is Tuscan in name, but Milanese at heart. The menu blends both traditions in their gorgeous wood-paneled dining rooms. On warm nights the outdoor tables are especially charming.

A classic for Milanese ladies who lunch, and anyone craving a post-shopping costoletta and a glass of Bollicine. Our friends swear by the pappardelle della casa followed by the Battuta di Manzo.

Hidden on a short, pedestrian street, La Brisa has an original menu and a great garden, and still feels like a secret. The dishes are elegant and inventive—with things like veal tongue, beef tail and other delicacies—and the back garden is one of the most pleasant places to have dinner in the city.

When you haven’t been to Italy for a while and you need some Italianatà, this is the place. It’s central, open late, and full of white-jacketed waiters and starched tablecloths. The food is simple and comforting: pasta of the day, vegetable buffet antipasti, even a decent pizza.

A classic that never disappoints. Located on Via Montenapoleone since 1817, Cova is truly an institution. Perfect for morning coffee or an afternoon aperitivo, and watching the polished Milanese crowd come and go at all hours of the day.

A gorgeous Aladdin’s cave of artisanal porcelain, ceramics and other statement pieces for your table. Run by a mother-daughter team who often paint pieces in the workshop themselves. Their signature style is whimsical, with lots of stars and zodiac motifs, but you can also commission your own custom set of tableware.

There are a number of cartolerie (stationary shops) in Milan, but Pettinaroli is one of the best. This family has been selling stationery and antique maps in the heart of Brera since 1881. Their speciality? Alpine prints and photography, molded leather eyeglass cases in different colors, the best engraved stationery, hand-printed paper and leather-bound journals.

Run by design legend Nina Yashar, Nilufar is the gold standard in Milan for the highest tier mid-century furnishings, lighting and design. The gallery on Via della Spiga is beautiful, but Nilufar Depot, a four-story warehouse of staged interiors, is the real spectacle. Nina has curated the best pieces of contemporary and modern design from Osanna Visconti to Gabriella Crespi to Allegra Hicks—it’s the best place to drop a fortune, but on a forever and ever piece.

A landmark and one of the great houses in the world, this Piero Portaluppi designed home is now a museum, and is mind-blowingly flawless. Made famous by the Luca Guadagnino film, I Am Love, it initially belonged to a wealthy industrialist family, and its elegance is expressed in the details. It’s a constant source of inspiration, and a must-visit for design and architecture lovers.

Villa Necchi Campiglio for some, Planetario Civico for others. Also designed by Piero Portaluppi, the architect behind Villa Necchi, this old-school 1930s planetarium sits tucked inside the Indro Montanelli gardens—you could easily walk right past it without noticing (many people do). But that would be a mistake, as it’s one of Milan’s more unexpected gems that attracts a local crowd.