New York is always full of surprises and so is this year's MICHELIN Guide to New York, with six new Stars shining bright.
LessIn the shadow of the New York Public Library, Chef Keiji Nakazawa exemplifies mastery of the highest order. An omakase like no other, the progression ebbs and flows with a dazzling variety of fish, shellfish, vegetables, and more—all aged, fermented, and pickled for weeks, months, and sometimes years. Rice is treated with reverence. In total, the pace, breadth, and persistence of excellence that unfolds here will impress even the most experienced sushi enthusiasts.
This Seoul transplant has an unusual entrance—via freight elevator up 16 floors—but the elegant space is instantly inviting. Echoing a traditional Korean home, guests are welcomed with savory crackers and drinks before being escorted to the dining room, where a minimalist design is juxtaposed with views of the Manhattan skyline. Joo Ok delivers a Korean tasting menu that is rooted in tradition but presented through a modern lens.
The talented Sam Lawrence is sure to impress diners at this welcoming restaurant in the heart of Chinatown. The warm, amber-toned dining room possesses the ease and comfort of a bistro, while the kitchen cooks with noteworthy levels of drive and ambition. The tight menu is sparse on words and doesn’t fit neatly into the box of any one cuisine but know that inspiration and originality are in proper supply.
As for new additions, Huso has been reincarnated and is a new Star. Like before, the entrance is a caviar shop and further in, find a restaurant that is fully realized with all the bells and whistles. Flowing white drapes, big windows and generously spaced tables cut an elegant, sophisticated figure in cool TriBeCa. Refined and polished, the tasting menu deploys caviar in a sensible manner alongside a host of finely calibrated sauces.
This intimate counter is a tight squeeze, but that’s hardly a deterrent for the guests who come for Chef Manabu Asanuma’s inspired kaiseki. From raw and grilled to simmered, steamed and fried, the menu is rooted heavily in the seasons, pulling ingredients from surrounding areas as well as prized seafood and meat from Japan.
Finally, Yamada also joins the One Star club. Chef Isao Yamada's life's work has been kaiseki, and this impressive venture adds an interesting facet to the roster of high-end Japanese dining in New York. Diners here are treated to a personal expression of seasonality, with each course highlighting a distinct method of preparation.