One of the rare mole-only eateries in Mexico City. We love the mole nupcial, a mix of the husband and wife’s (the owner’s) hometown recipes that is rumored to have up to 30 ingredients. You can also taste chicken bathed in mole or the mole-topped chicken and cheese enchiladas especiales. The caldo especial, chicken soup, makes a lovely starter. Open since 1957, this tiny Centro Histórico eatery has served well-known political, entertainment and social figures. And a loyal mole following.

The best barbacoa game in town. In business for 55 years, this family joint slow cooks the mutton for 12-14 hours in an underground, wood-burning stove. A platter gets you a kilo of meat with homemade tortillas, chicharrón, nopales, cheese and pápalo, a pungent wild herb. On cold days we also order consome, the tasty broth from the cooked mutton. Wash your food down with pulque, a fermented drink from maguey sap, the tree whose leaves keep the mutton super tender during cooking.

Made with mature hens, it is said that caldo de gallina makes you stronger. That’s why vendors and shoppers at the bustling La Merced Market fortify with the hearty chicken soup throughout the day. Grab a seat at the long table and your soup will arrive almost instantly. A giant bowl with broth and a piece of gallina arrives with freshly griddled tortillas. The feet are considered a delicacy among Mexican food lovers. Though Don Beto has left us, his wife and kids uphold the tradition well.

Most Mexico City tortillas are made from industrial mixes of hybrid corn varieties. Maizajo is all about the artisanal, using native blue, red, and yellow corn from small-scale farmers. Each heirloom tortilla is crafted fresh on the spot with no salt or flour fillers. “Once you’ve tried them, it’s not the same afterwards,” shares co-owner Chelsea González. Her fellow 20-something owners are reconnecting consumers to a rich tradition, and serving up delicious meals at the same time.

This locavore charmer in Condesa serves chef-driven versions of Mexican classics. Named for chef Adolfo Schwalge’s grandmother, the food celebrates the women that are the guardians of traditional cuisine. Many of the veggies come from farms in the city’s southern borough. Co-owner Pedro Sañudo is a mezcal expert. Enjoy a wide selection of hard-to-find bottles plus artisanal beers and wine. During Covid, the team cooked for kids in local shelters. Another example of their love of community.

To find this hidden pozolería, look for the “pozole” call button at the building’s entrance. Follow the fragrant scents down the hallway into a brightly lit space decorated with Spanish tiles. Here, the specialty is Guerrero-style pozole made with a tomatillo-based broth. Our favorite is the pork and green broth maciza. Let the waiter explain the order to add your accompaniments, from onion slices to crunchy chicharrón. The added spoonful of mezcal adds a smoky touch to the homey, filling soup.

Don’t be put off by the looks of this standing-room only, Azcapotzalco hole in the wall. The food will blow your mind. A taco here is like no other in Mexico City. Each order comes piled high with 11 ounces of meat and 6 handmade tortillas. Enough to feed two people or one very hungry eater. The secret is in the lard that the meat is marinated in and griddled with. If you have room, XXL cheese quesadillas are also on the menu. Pair everything with fresh salsas – warning the green one is HOT!

More than mere hot chocolate, this cozy café serves ancient Mesoamerican cacao drinks. Try a Quetzalpapalotl recipe spiced with ginger, rosemary and cinnamon. Spice lovers will enjoy the chile-spiced options. The owner is passionate about sharing the traditional beverages known as “precious water.” He sells packets of ready-made powders for you to recreate the drinks at home. Though we prefer the shop, where books, chocolate pots, and cacao-grinding stones add to the historical heft.

This brick-and-mortar taquería in the Zona Rosa has quietly used the same recipes to great acclaim for almost 110 years. Even President Porfirio Díaz dined here over a century ago. While the menu features Mexican classics, we go straight to the tacos. Our favorite might be the rajas con queso (poblano peppers with cheese). The guisados, stewed meats and veggies, are highlights, too. Think tinga de pollo (chicken in tomato sauce), chicharron in green sauce, and spicy and sweet red mole.