Kiyoi㐂宵 is a quick walk from Shibuya’s crowds and remains modern and simple. Yuri Murai serves home-style food and excellent sake at her peaceful izakaya. Echoing a Spanish tapas bar, most of the daily dishes are on display along the counter. The menu is simple and seasonal – a summer evening had us dining on marinated octopus and a potato salad studded with salty pork belly and strips of sweet pickled kombu (kelp), unleashing waves of umami. Yuri dug out a fresh and crisp sake to end the night.

Just west of Shinjuku Station is an izakaya renowned for its tokishirazu, a unique type of salmon caught out of season in Hokkaido, celebrated for its fluffy texture and lack of fishiness. Shake Kojima’s interior evokes the nostalgia of Japan’s Showa period, creating a cozy atmosphere that complements its home-style dishes. A succulently grilled salmon filet with crispy skin pairs perfectly with chilled sake. Other offerings include homemade kasu salmon and hizu, pickled salmon head cartilage.

For decades, Binchoro izakaya has fed the sarariman (salary men) and OL (office ladies) in Tokyo’s commercial center. The essence of a nourishing, satisfying Japanese business lunch at Binchoro is the donburi: well-prepared ingredients served over a bowl of rice. When in season, you’ll find perfect buri, Japanese yellowtail. Miso-marinated fish over heaps of rice topped with sliced scallion, sesame seeds and flakes of nori seaweed. There’s always a few lunch specials, and a wide variety of sake.

In the Nihonbashi financial district, this izakaya experience has a modern twist. Originally from Tsukiji Market, this pub-style establishment is now part of the Coredo Towers. Despite its modern location, it has a rustic feel true to its heritage, and office workers gather to dine on charcoal-cooked fish and knock back a vast selection of sake from across Japan. The menu highlight is the fresh catch of the day, which you can have grilled, sashimi or both.

Perched on the second floor of Tokyo Midtown, this miso-minded izakaya has a perfect view of the garden and Tokyo skyline (and makes for a wonderful treat during cherry blossom season). Suju Masayuki tries to recreate basic Japanese family meals from his hometown in Nagano, with a focus on meats marinated in different misos. We like the home-style fish stew of mackerel and thinly sliced Japanese beef, both in miso. The huge selection of Nagano prefecture sakes are another big draw.

In the upscale alleys of Azabujuban, this underground yakiniku (grilled meat) izakaya feels like a secret refuge. A grill-your-own spot, cook up kalbi thinly sliced and marinated in a sweet-salty sauce with a touch of garlic. The harami, skirt steak, is well-marbled with fat and served simply with salt. Mix and match as you throw slices onto the central round shichirin grill, cooking each piece to your liking. It’s hard to go wrong, especially with the surprisingly robust drinks menu.