From elegant hotel dining rooms to rum punch afternoon teas, there’s a new creative energy in West Indies dining. And a long history behind it.
LessIn Brixton, the city’s hub for Caribbean cuisine, Wood & Water is distinguished by its expert menu of both cocktails and small plates. Chef-owner Jackson, a former Miss Jamaica, has a tagline for it: “Modern British with Jamaican soul.” The attractive space evokes a jungle, with giant leaves on the wall and plush, gold-accented green chairs. Along with standout curry goat sausage rolls with a filling of sweet-spiced meat in flaky crust are peppery prawns on a bed of bright chimichurri sauce.
SisterWomanVegan, also known as Safiya Robinson, is on a mission to promote creative, plant-based dishes. She’s currently doing that as the chef-in-residence at Moko, a cozy listening bar with walls of vinyl records and a restaurant in Tottenham. Her self-described “soul food with Caribbean influence” reflects the London-born cook’s dual African-American and Caribbean heritage.
Chef Taylor has turned the Langham’s Palm Court into a five-night-a-week party. A buzzing, dressy crowd fills a room decorated with colorful portraits from Afro-Futurist painter Caroline Chinakwe. (Taylor helped curate.) He garnishes slow-braised pork belly with salted thyme cracklings and pickled raisins; he also turns green bananas into a gratin with nutmeg cream. Another Taylor remixed dish is ackee and saltfish.The bar turns out drinks that fit the dining room’s party vibe.
In North London’s Walthamstow, Rhythm Kitchen is run by Delroy Dixon, affectionately known as the “Jerk Father.” His wife Ann, who also co-owns the place, introduced the Caribbean Afternoon Tea experience last year. It is a simultaneously elegant and over-the-top affair that mixes classic tea options like Earl Grey and English breakfast with such pours as sorrel and ginger or soursop and moringa.
Limin got its start as a rum-fueled beach club, first in Spitalfields and then in Southbank. In April, founder Sham Mahabir redesigned the space and added a retractable roof to make it a year-round place to hang out alongside piles of sand that still evoke a tropical party. “I wanted it to be very much Ibiza meets the Caribbean,” Mahabir has said. For weekend brunches, DJs blast reggae, soca and house music to promote a social atmosphere.
In 2010, Ajith Jayawickrema and Crispin Twedell opened the original outpost of Turtle Bay, now the UK’s most recognizable Carribean food and drink dynasty, in Milton Keynes, about an hour’s drive from London. Soon, they were expanding across the country, alongside Rum Kitchen and Levi Root’s Caribbean Smokehouse, helping bring Caribbean food and drinks into the mainstream. Today, Turtle Bay has 50 locations across the country: The latest opened in Hammersmith this year.