Few know that Georgia is one of the world’s oldest breadbaskets, where wheat was first cultivated. Taste this tradition for yourself at this lovely shop in bohemian Vera. Here Frenchman Jean-Jacques bakes fantastic loaves, some with tsiteli doli, a naturally gluten-free ancient red wheat he farms himself. The shelves are stocked with his farmer friends’ organic produce, jams, honey, and more. A counter fridge displays artisan cheese like the cream cheese we love to spread on his brioche.

Come here to taste Georgia’s hangover cure, khashi. The soup is a simple marriage of tripe, calf’s foot, and milk. When done right, there’s no funky aroma, just restorative deliciousness. To eat, add a few pinches of salt, three heaping spoons of garlic, and stir. Slurp your soup accompanied by the in-house violinist. Also on the menu: fantastic khinkali (dumplings). The restaurant is open 24/7, since Georgians like to preemptively attack their hangover before going to bed.

Chacha is distilled from the fermented grape skins, stems and seeds left over from the winemaking process. To avoid a nasty hangover, best to know who makes it. That’s why we turn to Vato Botsvadze, owner of Tbilisi’s first exclusive chacha shop. “I consider this a chacha museum,” he says, pointing to the wall of bottles. The lusty spirit comes in many forms, from mulberry-aged versions to cognac-style sips made from distilled wine. Belly up to the shop’s tiny bar to taste them.

Like a musician who values tone over riffs, chef Giorgi Iosava grooves on simplicity rather than lavishness, cooking traditional Georgian fare with a twist. Shkmeruli, garlic chicken, in a creamy paste rather than a milky sauce. Ghomi made with millet instead of corn meal. This must order is served with a ladle of tender veal walnut stew, kharcho. Iosava’s wife, Natalia, works the dining room, decorated with bric-a-brac antiques and oil paintings. We adore her wild herb-infused chacha brandy.

Designed like a cozy mountain cabin, Pasanauri is home to Georgia’s signature mouthwatering delight: Khinkali, fat dumplings, are stuffed with meats, spices and herbs. Eating these with a knife and fork is a cultural faux pas. First, sprinkle pepper on a dumpling. Once cool enough to pick up, bite a hole in the side to slurp up the juice. Gobble it all down except the dough nub to keep track of how many you’ve devoured. Beer, not wine, is the traditional pairing for this greasy goodness.

This lovely botanical patio serves some of the lightest, freshest fare in town. Homemade sulguni cheese is made on site, served solo or stuffed in chivishtari, the fluffiest of cornbreads. Most of the menu is west Georgian Megrelian cuisine, like elargi, melt in your mouth cheesy grits. Or kupati, a piquant paprika and garlic pork entrail sausage. Alubali is owned by four women. One, Monica, likens it to a “a village where you’re sitting outside, and everything is tasty.”

Worth the trip to the edge of town for homey Kakhetian cuisine. Start with refreshing chinchari (nettles) or fried oyster mushrooms with tarragon and walnuts. Some vegetables and goats come from owner Chichiko Goletiani’s farm. The unbelievably tender meat is stewed in a rich mixture of tomatoes, garlic, onion, and coriander. Fresh bread is baked with house-ground wheat flour. Don’t miss Goletiani’s wine, made by his family since 1955. FYI, Kakhelebi closes at 8pm – reserve to stay later.

Seven winemakers own this cozy cellar in the heart of historic Sololaki. They call it Vino Underground; we call it wine heaven. Most of the 100 family-produced Georgian wines are made as they’ve been for thousands of years: in buried ceramic vessels. What sets them apart is the winemakers’ utmost care for the vines. Whites include straw-colored Kisi and Rkatsiteli, Georgia’s most popular white. Wash them down with a few savory snacks, like sulguni cheese and spinach-like ekala.