Short for aperitif, apéro is revered like a religion in Marseille. The local experts at Culinary Backstreets share our favorite spots for this oh-so-French happy hour – celebrating authentic spots to eat, drink, and be as merry as a Marseillais.
LessThis rooftop used to be the city’s best-kept secret. Now, the tiny terrasse hidden above the Vieux-Port is one of the most coveted apéro spots. The wrap-around counter boasts birds-eye views. Or, grab a stool at the central bar to watch barmen shake up mojitos, Moscow Mules and the ubiquitous spritz. Bites include fried fish (mange tout), anchoïade and charcuterie boards. Plan to arrive early to score a spot. With no reservations and limited capacity, this diamond in the sky fills up fast.
Thanks to its panoramic views and sociable owners, this swinging spot is always packed. Order inside at the tiny bar. The simple menu has all the essentials: pastis, pression (draft beer) and panisses, the chickpea fritters that are Marseille’s signature snack. First-come, first-serve, we recommend arriving early to score a table. We prefer the sidewalk for the best views of Marseille’s harbor and its medieval forts. Time your visit with sunset hour – the pink sky pairs perfectly with rosé.
This Quartier des Antiquaires bar is beloved for its warm atmosphere and craft cocktails. For a most Marseille sip, try one with made with local distillery Ferroni’s small-batch booze. A rotating tapas menu goes beyond cheese and charcuterie. Think kefta (spiced meatballs), croque monsieurs and grilled sausages. The tiny interior is cozy on cold nights. We love whittling away warm eves on the spacious courtyard courtyard lit with string lights. Check social media for DJ nights and other events.
Located in picturesque Vallon des Auffes, this tapas bar is inspired by Mediterranean viaghji (Corsican for voyages). Savor briny plates of anchovies, sautéed seiche (squid) and platters of artisanal charcuterie. We’re drawn to the crisp Corsican whites and rosés. Gather around white Lillet-stamped barrels under twinkling lights. The setting besides the charming port encourages dreams of setting sail. Call in advance to reserve – though the busy spot doesn’t always answer - or show up early.
This convivial spot is fittingly named the “friends’ bar.” For everyone seems to be pals with owners Ivan and Mélanie. Located steps from the beach in Vielle-Chapelle, the patio is a prime perch for apéro. Pair your drinks with Mélanie’s phenomenal pan bagnat and snacks from rotating chefs. Here, apéro starts early and stretches to midnight. Epic sunsets are on the house. Some nights the bar beats to DJ’s spinning funk, soul and house. Check their Instagram for upcoming grooves.
This neighborhood bar in hipster Chave will hook you with its handcrafted cocktails. The most popular, the Parpaing, is a refreshing gin, cucumber and basil mix – imagine a Provençal Pimm’s Cup. Moscow Mule fans will adore the house-made ginger beer. The tasty tapas are a big draw. Think polenta fries, fried calamari or fettuccini alfredo for bigger appetites. Whether on the plant-lined courtyard patio or by the zinc-topped bar, good times are guaranteed here.
This old body shop is home to Marseille’s first bona-fide brewpub. Each of the organic craft brews are named after a local island. The most popular, Tiboulen, is a dry-hopped (houblonné á cru) pale ale. On warm days, the Gaby, a kaffir lime-scented white wheat ale, is wonderfully refreshing. Inside, sit beside giant steel tanks fragrant with fermenting hops. Or, join the crowds spilling onto the sidewalk out front. Hungry? Try a charcuterie and cheese boards, or order a pizza for delivery.
Like many Marseillais, we love this quintessential French café for post-work beverages. Waiters in crisp white shirts and black aprons whisk between the old-school interior and lively patio, kindly bringing little dishes of nuts, popcorn and olives on the house with each drink order. For more substantial eats, tuck into warm tapas like baked camembert and blistered peppers. The front terrace is the most popular perch, whether bathed in the summer sun or heat lamps in the winter.