WHERE TO STAY: The Cortesin group lovingly renovated this historic palacio, with sumptuous interiors done by Spanish designer Lorenzo Castillo. Its common areas and rooms are a kaleidoscope of patterns and furnishings—think Moorish tilework and toile drapery—a contrast to the serene Tramuntana mountains outside. It’s a great way to get both town and country: the hotel is only 20 minutes from Palma. Rooms from €800

WHERE TO STAY: Richard Branson’s newest Virgin Limited Edition property features just 26 rooms and suites, two of which are in old medieval towers, on some of the most stunning land on the island. Enjoy mountain views and private beach access, plus two restaurants and a spa. Rooms from €800 in high season.

WHERE TO STAY: This hotel’s opening in 2021 put the small southeastern town of Santanyí on the map for luxury travelers. An understated arrival gives way to a rustic paradise of local stone and wood beams, complete with a 25-meter (82-foot) outdoor pool and bar. Check out the Sa Calma spa with its own pool and sauna, and save room for dinner at Ocre. I’m still dreaming about the arroz meloso, a creamy rice dish with burrata and local vegetables. Rooms from €315

WHERE TO STAY: The best option for a chic cityside stay, it’s in the heart of the old town of Palma, with a hidden garden restaurant. Some suites have original frescoes on the ceiling and come with views of the medieval church opposite. The showstopper is the rooftop pool. Rooms from €325

WHERE TO EAT: Spain’s most Michelin-lauded chef is Martín Berasategui, and this Palma spot is his casual take on neighborhood dining—Txoko means corner, or small place, in Basque. Try the heavenly cod on a bed of confit potatoes with pepper aioli. Mallorcan wines dominate the menu; the Mosaic white is crisp and just €4 a glass.

WHERE TO EAT: London’s Barrafina redefined Spanish food for the UK capital; now its proprietors have returned to put their fingerprints on their ancestral hometown of Palma, slinging fantastic classic tapas from behind a long white marble bar counter. Book ahead—the place gets busy.

WHERE TO DRINK: Located in Palma’s leafy Santa Catalina neighborhood, this local favorite serves up small plates with suggested drink pairings, such as a pisco bloody mary oyster with a cool glass of cava. I loved the macaron starter, filled with savory Idiazábal cheese. The cocktails come strong; be brave and try the Vandal Attitude, with bourbon, ginger syrup, mint and chocolate bitters.

SIGHTSEEING 101: A wooden train from 1912 makes a meandering, clickety-clack journey from the city of Palma to the beach town of Sóller. The hourlong route makes stops for photos of the views once you’re high up in the mountains. It’s an experience in itself, and a round-trip ticket is €25.

SIGHTSEEING 101: In the mountain town of Bunyola there’s extensive gardens and palm trees, alongside a historic house with links to the Moorish invasions. An orchard supplies fresh oranges to the cafe on-site, where guests can chill out tothe sound of classic music. It’s a favorite of expert Virginia Irurita, who suggests travelers stop by for photos and a history lesson.

SIGHTSEEING 101: With a population of 600, the scenic town of Deia on the northwest coast is filled with honeyed-stone buildings, galleries and shops, and is the final resting place of poet Robert Graves. Walk down through olive groves for fresh seafood at Ca’s Patro March, a patio restaurant overlooking the pebbled beach Cala Deià. Go for a swim after lunch.