There are two ways to tackle Indian food in London. The first is to concentrate on its modern Indian restaurants, which are decidedly different from what you would find in Delhi or Mumbai. The bacon naan at Dishoom, (with its thick cut crispy Ginger Pig bacon, oozing fried egg, all wrapped in naan, is the idea every Indian restaurant wished they thought of.

A modern Indian restaurant oozing with flair, the pear and granita bhel at Chet Sharma’s BiBi completely turns the already-chaotic category of chaat on its head.

At Thattukada, an Indian spot in East Ham, you can find incredible KFC (Kerala Fried Chicken), crispier and spicier than anything in Soho.

This popular restaurant is one-third of London's holy trinity of Punjabi-Pakistani grill houses.

This popular restaurant is one-third of London's holy trinity of Punjabi-Pakistani grill houses.

This popular restaurant is one-third of London's holy trinity of Punjabi-Pakistani grill houses.

For the real deal in terms of British Pakistani cuisine, go down the road from some of the other grill houses to Aladin’s Kebabish for the Karachi trinity of haleem, nihari, and qorma.

Taste of Pakistan in Hounslow does monumental Pashtun food: giant specter-shaped slabs of naan that sit at the head of the table like Banquo’s ghost, ready to mop up charsi karahi and chapli kebabs the size of 45 RPM records.

For Bangladeshi food, you can go to Brick Lane, but avoid the tourist traps and eat at the Sylheti canteen Graam Bangla, where you can get river fish curries and fermented condiments that are as pungent and complex as a dish from any central London Thai restaurant.

Good Ghanaian food is mainly found east and south in small community restaurants like Asafo.

A lively bar where Afrobeat musicians and even Zendaya have been spotted eating tchofi (turkey tails) and akonfem (guinea fowl).

The best Guyanese restaurant, and one of the city’s best overall, is Faye Gomes’s Kaieteur Kitchen in the Elephant and Castle area, which serves food you’ll never tire of eating: spinach rice, dhal puri, stewed pumpkin, and fried fish. For guidance, just ask Gomes what’s good, and get a ginger punch.

There has been a recent blossoming of Sri Lankan restaurants in the British capital, even in central London. This restaurant, which has several other locations throughout the city, dolls out its titular snack, lacy fermented rice flour pancakes.

This Sri Lankan restaurant serves its take on HBC (hot buttered cuttlefish), a kind of Sri-Lankanized salt and pepper squid invented by Shandongese immigrants who came to the island after independence.

Head to Lewisham to Everest Curry King, a kind of Tamil canteen, and get a selection of curries, the best of of which is an outstanding aubergine and chickpea number, with the aubergine cooked until the skin has the bitter chew of liquorice and the texture of Japanese lacquerware.

Mauritius Paradise Catering is a long-standing feature of Wood Green Shopping City, where you can buy gâteaux piment and gateaux arouille with chutney if you’re in need of a snack, or larger diaphanous rotis stuffed with soft chicken livers.

At Edmonton Green, you can find Shen Mauritian Fusion, a small Mauritian caterer with a mere two tables. Order whatever is available that day: dholl roti, chicken biryani or, if the owner is in, a noodle dish that exemplifies the hybridity of Mauritian-Chinese cuisine.

The soul of Jamaican cuisine is found in soups and stews at takeaway spots like this one, where Rihanna sneaks off every time she touches down at Heathrow.

Try the jerk lamb at this stellar Jamaican barbeque joint, where the food is as authentic as it is flavorful.